Your Template Library

Find the instructions, templates, hints and extra ideas for all of the creative makes in your Disney Cross Stitch magazine collection.

Bookmarks
Laundry Bag
T-Shirt Motifs
Notebook Cover
Large Square Cushion
Small Square Cushion
Pen Pot
Pillow Case
Pennant Banner
Square Tin Lid
Square Pin Board
Cushion
Pocket
Coaster
Embroidery Hoop
Aida Fabric
Christmas Stocking
Greeting Card
Button
Triangular Bunting
Pomander
Pin Cushion
Key Ring
Make-up Bag
Cafetiere Cover
Square/Rectangular Banner
Drawstring Back Pack
Mobile
Earphone Case
Cupcake Toppers
Towel Trim
Doorhanger
Tote Bag
Ring Holder
Trinket Box
Cut-Out Motif
Mug Hug
Loop and Dowel Banner
Box Frame Clock
Fridge Magnets
Circular Bag
Tea Cosy
Drawstring Pouch
Baby Building Block
Heart Pomander
Travel Card Holder
Passport Cover
Tablet Cover
E-Reader Case
Eye Mask
Glasses Case
Embroidery Hoop Pin Cushion
Sewing Needle Case
Luggage Tag
Sewing Machine Cover
Peg Bag
Bookends
Slippers
Wallet

Bookmarks

Follow these easy instructions to make up lovely bookmarks
– perfect for your Disney Motifs.

You will need

Your stitched design

White card

Ruler

Scissors

Paper glue

Coloured card

Double-sided tape

Tassel (optional)

Backing your design:

  1. With the design centred, cut the stitched Aida to measure 17 x 6.6cm.
  2. Cut a rectangle of white card 15 x 4.4cm. Place the white card face down centrally on the wrong side of the Aida.
  3. Fold the corners of the Aida diagonally over the card and stick in place with paper glue. Run a thumb nail along the folds to sharpen them. Fold the long and short edges of the Aida over the card and stick with paper glue.

To create sharp angles to the corners, sew the meeting diagonal edges together with a few small stitches.

Mounting your design:

Cut a rectangle of card 16.1 x 5.6cm.

Apply 1.2cm wide double-sided tape to the edges of the bookmark on the underside.

Peel off the backing tapes then stick the bookmark centrally on the red card.

Extra Idea

Glue a hanging loop of a red tassel to the centre of the lower edge of the bookmark on the wrong side before following MOUNTING instructions.

Laundry Bag

Follow these easy instructions to make up a lovely laundry bag
– perfect for your Disney Motifs.

You will need

Embroidery threads (see chart key)

Two 48 x 68cm rectangles of fabric (as specified on chart)

Cross stitch needle

2.5m woven tape or ribbon

Dressmaker’s pins

Safety pin

Sewing machine

Matching sewing thread

Scissors

Tape measure

Making your bag:

  1. Following the chart, work the cross stitch design centrally on to one of the fabric rectangles. Press lightly from the wrong side.
  2. Trim the fabric down to 45 x 60cm, leaving a 10cm margin at the bottom edge and a 9cm margin along each otherside edge of the embroidery. Cut the second piece of linen down to the same size.
  3. Press under a 1cm turning along the top edge of both pieces and neaten the other three edges with a machine zigzag or overstitch. Mark a point on each side edge, 6cm down from each top corner.
  4. Pin the two pieces together with the cross stitch facing inwards. Machine stitch the sides and bottom edges, leaving the top 6cm open and using a 1.5cm seam allowance.
  5. Press back the seam allowance all round, then press back a 3.5cm turning around the top edge. This will be the gathering channel where you thread the ties.
  6. Stitch down the seam allowance at the top side openings, 5mm from the folds. Pin down the 3.5cm turning, then stitch it down 5mm from the inner folds to make the gathering channel.
  7. Turn the bag right side out, ease the corners into shape and press lightly using a cloth to protect the stitches.
  8. Cut the tape in half. Fix a safety pin to one length and thread it through the front gathering channel starting at the right corner and then along the back gathering channel. Knot the ends tightly and trim. Thread the other length through the other way, starting at the left corner.

T-Shirt Motifs

Follow these easy instructions to make up lovely t-shirt motifs
– perfect for your Disney Motifs.

You will need

Embroidery threads (see chart key)

14-count soluble cross stitch fabric

T-shirt

Cross stitch needle

Stitch’n’Tear stabilising fabric

Sewing thread and needle

Making your motif:

  1. Wash the T-shirt to allow for any shrinkage and leave to dry.
  2. Soft knitted fabrics like fine jersey need extra backing to prevent the cross stitch becoming distorted, so cut the corresponding amount of Stitch’n’Tear stabilising pieces to back each area of stitching. Tack the stabilising fabric in place on the wrong side of the T-shirt. Work all your stitches through the backing.
  3. Cut a piece of soluble cross stitch fabric the same size as your design and tack it in place on the right side of the T-shirt. Work the design in cross stitch as usual, taking care to only stitch through the front layer of the T-shirt and your backing fabric.
  4. Gently tear the surplus backing fabric away when the cross stitch is complete, then dissolve the soluble cross stitch fabric following the manufacturer’s instructions.

Remember, if you are stitching onto items which will need washing, make sure the embroidery threads you use are colour fast.

Notebook Cover

Follow these easy instructions to make up lovely notebook covers
– perfect for your Disney Motifs.

You will need

Embroidery threads (see chart key)

Aida (count as specified on chart) the size of your notebook

Cross stitch needle

Dressmaker’s pins

Needle and thread

Pencil

Ruler/measuring tape

Making your cover:

  1. Work your design on the Aida as per the chart.
  2. Measure the book from the front opening edge, across the front cover, spine and back cover to the back opening edge; this is Measurement A. Measure the height of the book, this is Measurement B. For the cover, draw a rectangle on a piece of cross-stitched Aida: measurement A plus 1.5cm x measurement B plus 1.5cm, with a 1cm seam allowance added to all edges. The cross-stitch design should be positioned within one edge of the rectangle. Check that the cross-stitched design will be positioned centrally on the front of the cover. Adjust the rectangle if necessary, then cut it out.
  3. For the facings, cut two rectangles of Aida 10cm x measurement B plus 1.5cm, with a 1cm seam allowance added to all edges. For the lining, cut one piece of cotton fabric the same size as the cover Aida.
  4. Turn under 1cm on one long edge of each facing, stitch in place to hem the facings. With right sides facing, pin one facing to each end of the cover, matching the raw edges. With right sides facing, pin the lining on top. Stitch the outer edges using a 1cm seam allowance, leaving a 10cm gap centrally on the lower edge to turn through. Clip the corners and turn the cover right side out. Slipstitch the gap closed. Slip the book cover onto the book.

To avoid the colour of the notebook showing through the cross-stitched Aida, tack a layer of matching cotton or interfacing under the cross-stitched Aida before making the cover.

Large Square Cushion

Follow these easy instructions to make up a lovely cushion
– perfect for your Disney Motifs.

You will need

Embroidery threads (see chart key)

65cm square of Aida (count as specified on chart)

Cross stitch needle

Matching sewing thread

65cm square linen for the cushion back

55cm cushion pad

Dressmaker’s pins

Sewing machine

Making your cushion:

  1. Work your design as per the chart.
  2. Trim the finished piece leaving a 3cm white border around the outside edge of the entire pattern. You'll now have a 57cm square. Place the Aida, right side down, on a folded towel, and press lightly.
  3. To make the back panel, cut your linen into two pieces; one measuring 38 x 57cm and the other measuring 27 x 57cm. For both pieces, finish off one long edge with a narrow 1cm hem.
  4. With right sides facing and raw edges lined up, pin the large panel to the left edge of the Aida, then pin the small panel to the right edge so that the hems overlap. Machine stitch 2cm from the edge, then neaten the seam allowance with a zigzag to stop it fraying. Clip a small triangle from each corner.
  5. Turn the cover right side out, gently ease out the corners and press lightly from the back. Insert the cushion pad.

Small Square Cushion

Follow these easy instructions to make up a lovely cushion
– perfect for your Disney Motifs.

You will need

Embroidery threads (see chart key)

45cm square of Aida (count as specified on chart)

Cross stitch needle

Matching sewing thread

35 x 50cm linen for the cushion back

35cm cushion pad

Dressmaker’s pins

Sewing machine

Making your cushion:

  1. Measure a point on the left hand side of your design, 17.5cm from the centre stitch. Trim the edge of the Aida in line with this point, then do the same on the other three sides. You’ll now have a 35cm square. Place the Aida, right side down, on a folded towel and press lightly.
  2. To make the back panel, cut a 30 x 35cm length of linen. Finish off one long edge with a narrow seam and do the same to the remaining shorter length.
  3. Next assemble the cover. With right sides facing and raw edges lined up, pin the large panel to the left edge of the aida, then pin the small panel to the right edge so that the hems overlap. Machine stitch 8mm from the edge, then neaten the seam allowance with a zigzag to stop it fraying. Clip a small triangle from each corner.
  4. Turn the cover right side out, gently ease out the corners and press lightly from the back. Insert the cushion pad.

Pen Pot

Follow these easy instructions to make up a lovely pen pot
– perfect for your Disney Motifs.

You will need

Embroidery threads (see chart key)

40 x 20cm 11-count Aida

Cross stitch needle

Metal cylindrical pen pot, 10cm high x 8cm diameter.

Dressmaker’s pins

Double-sided tape

Fabric glue

Scissors

Making your pen pot:

  1. Work your design on to the Aida. Trim your Aida to a rectangle 29 x 11cm, with your design centred inside.
  2. Turn under a 1cm hem along both long edges and press in place. Turn under a 0.5 cm hem along each short edge and press in place.
  3. Cut three long lengths of double-sided tape and position them around the circumference of your pen pot; place one length around the top, one length around the bottom and one length around the middle.
  4. Remove the protective backing from the double-sided tape, then carefully press your stitched design onto the pen pot, smoothing out any wrinkles as you go.
  5. Use a small amount of fabric glue to fasten the overlapping edge of your design.

You could use ribbon to disguise the overlap where the two ends of the Aida join.

Pillow Case

Follow these easy instructions to make up a lovely pillow case
– perfect for your Disney Motifs.

You will need

Embroidery threads (see chart key)

Cross stitch needle

100 x 8cm 14-count Aida band

Regular pillowcase

Dressmaker’s pins

Needle and thread

Iron

Making your pillow case:

  1. Work your design on the Aida band, leaving a margin of 5cm between the end of the band and the edge of your design. Trim to size, then neaten each end of the band by turning under a hem of 0.5cm. Press in place.
  2. Decide whether to position your band on the inside or outside edge of the pillowcase. Measure 15cm in from the chosen edge and pin your band in place.
  3. Attach to the pillowcase using small running stitches in a matching thread. Take care to only stitch through one layer of the pillowcase.

Pennant Banner

Follow these easy instructions to make up lovely banners
– perfect for your Disney Motifs.

You will need

Embroidery threads (see chart key)

30 x 20cm 11-count Aida

Cross stitch needle

Wooden dowling 14cm long x 4mm diameter

Dressmaker’s pins

Needle and matching thread

Iron

Fabric glue

Baker’s twine, cord or ribbon

Making your banner:

  1. Work the design as per the chart.
  2. Trim your fabric to measure 22.5 x 14cm rectangle. To achieve this, leave a margin of 2.5cm from the top edge of your stitched design, and a 1cm margin around the other three edges.
  3. Turn the two long edges over by 1cm to the back of your work. Press in place and secure with small running stitches or fabric glue.
  4. To create the ‘tail’ of your banner, cut the Aida up to just below the outline centre point so you almost create a circus tent flap. Fold each edge back under the work, following the outline stitching. Gently press in place and secure with fabric glue. Mitre the corners (cut diagonally) and fold up to create a sharp point.
  5. To create the channel through which to thread the dowling, turn the top 2.5cm margin of Aida to the back of your work and lightly press. Secure by machine or hand stitching a seam 3mm in from the raw edge.
  6. Thread the dowling through the channel and knot a length of twine or ribbon to each end.

Extra Idea

To customise your banner you could add tassels or pompoms.

Square Tin Lid

Follow these easy instructions to make up lovely tin lid
– perfect for your Disney Motifs.

You will need

Embroidery threads (see chart key)

11-count Aida the size of the tin lid, plus 5cm on each side

Cross stitch needle

Fabric in matching colour and size to Aida (optional)

6mm wide double-sided tape

9mm wide ribbon

Making your tin lid:

  1. Work your design as per the chart.
  2. With the design centred, cut the Aida to the size of the lid, plus the depth of the rim on all edges. If the lid will show through the Aida, cut one or two layers of matching fabric to fit the lid.
  3. Apply double-sided tape to the rim of the lid, then peel off the backing tape. If using, place the matching fabric on the lid. Place the cross stitched Aida on top and smooth the centre of the side edges onto the rim. If the corners of the lid are curved, trim the Aida to fit, snipping the curves to reduce the bulk of the Aida. If the corners are right angles, fold under the fullness neatly. Continue sticking the Aida onto the tape.
  4. Apply another length of double-sided tape to the rim of the lid, covering the raw edges of Aida. Starting at the back edge, stick the ribbon to the tape. Cut off the excess ribbon.

Square Pin Board

Follow these easy instructions to make up a lovely pin board
– perfect for your Disney Motifs.

You will need

Embroidery threads (see chart key)

14-count Aida the size of the pinboard, plus 6cm on each side

Cross stitch needle

Cork pinboard

Double-sided tape

Staple gun

Making your pin board:

  1. Work your design as per the chart.
  2. With the design centred, cut the Aida to the size of the pin board, plus 6cm on each side.
  3. Apply double-sided tape to each edge on the reverse of the pinboard, then remove the protective backing. Place the cross-stitched Aida on top of the pinboard and smooth the centre and the side edges out.
  4. Start by sticking the left edge in place on the reverse of the board. Then, keeping the Aida taut without over-stretching, smooth the pattern across the front of the board and secure the right edge. Follow by securing the top and bottom edges.
  5. Neatly fold under the bulk at the corners and secure with a staple gun.

Making a Rectangular Cushion

You will need

Your stitched design

50 x 30cm cushion pad

60 x 30cm cotton fabric for backing

Dressmaker’s pins

Sewing machine

Matching sewing thread

Scissors

From the backing fabric cut:
one 40 x 30cm large panel
one 20 x 30cm small panel

  1. Take your stitched and pressed design and trim the fabric back to create a 1cm seam allowance all round.
  2. Take your backing fabric panels, then press and stitch a narrow double hem along one 30cm edge of both the large and the small panel.
  3. Place the large panel over one end of the cross stitch fabric with the right sides facing inwards and the raw edges matching. Pin in in place, then pin the small panel at the other end.
  4. Machine stitch all around the outside edge using a 1cm seam allowance. Turn the cover the right side out and gently push out the corners with a blunt pencil. Press lightly and insert the cushion pad.

Making and Adding a Pocket

You will need

Your stitched design

Dressmaker’s pins

Sewing machine or needle for hand stitching

Sewing thread

Scissors

  1. Take your stitched and pressed design. Fold back and press the side and bottom edges so that there is a 1cm margin from the edge of the stitching. Press back a 1cm hem along the top edge.
  2. Trim the seam allowance beyond the fold back to 6cm along the top edge and 1cm on the other edges. Unfold the hems, press back the corners, then refold.
  3. Machine/hand stitch the top edge, 1cm from the fold. Pin the pocket to the item you wish to add it to and sew down along the side and bottom edges.

Although you can finish your pocket using hand stitching, a sewing machine will give a stronger finish, which can be handy for pockets which often have strain on them.

Making a Coaster

You will need

Your finished design

Plastic insert coaster kit

Pencil

Scissors

Iron

  1. If the coaster kit comes with a template, position the template centrally over your design and draw around it with a pencil. Cut out, leaving a 5mm border all around. If the kit doesn’t include a template, remove the back of the coaster, place your design into the recess and position as necessary. Use a pencil to lightly draw around the inside of the recess onto the back of your Aida, then cut out, leaving a 5mm border as above.
  2. Fold each edge to the wrong side of your design using the 5mm border and press in place. To get a sharp corner, unfold the edges and fold each corner point in diagonally, then refold the edges along their original lines. Press all folds in place once more for a crisp, flat finish, then insert your design into the coaster and reattach the back.

The recess depth in coaster kits varies in size. As Aida is quite a bulky fabric, go for the deepest recess you can find.

Finishing an Embroidery Hoop

You will need

Your finished piece of stitching

An embroidery hoop

Backing material of your choice (lightweight card, fabric or felt)

Double-sided tape

Scissors

Pencil

PVA Glue

  1. To make the backing, place the inner hoop onto your backing material and draw around the outside of it using a pencil. Cut out and put to one side.
  2. Place the outer hoop centrally over your stitched design and position as desired. Use a pencil to lightly draw an outline around the inside of the hoop onto the Aida. Cut out your Aida following the line, leaving a 2.5cm border all around.
  3. Place your finished design between the two hoops, position as required and tighten. Your design should be tort but not over-stretched.
  4. Turn the frame over and apply double-sided tape around the entire inside edge of the inner hoop. Remove the backing tape, then fold the excess border fabric inside the hoop, pressing it firmly down onto the double-sided tape and smoothing out any lumps.
  5. To finish, add your backing material by applying a thin layer of PVA glue to the back of the hoop. Place the backing material on top of the glue - right side up - and press firmly in place until set.

You may want to use serrated scissors or pinking shears to cut out your Aida/backing fabric, as the zigzag edge they produce can prevent the material from starting to fray.

For miniature embroidery hoops, the excess border around your design should be smaller as you will only have a small amount of space to work with.

Using Soluble Aida/Waste Fabric

You will need

Item to stitch on

Waste fabric or soluble Aida in the count of your choice

Iron-on or stitch-on fabric stabiliser

Needle and thread

Dressmaker’s pins

Water/spray bottle

Tweezers

Scissors

  1. Ensure the item you’re planning to stitch on is wrinkle free.
  2. Cut your soluble Aida/Waste fabric and stabiliser to the correct dimensions depending on the size of your design.
  3. Position you soluble Aida/Waste fabric over the area you plan to stitch on and lightly pin in place. Then attach using long tacking stitches.
  4. Fix the stabiliser to your item (either iron or tack in place) on the reverse of where you have attached your soluble Aida/Waste fabric.
  5. Stitch your design as usual. Once finished, remove the excess fabric. For soluble Aida, follow the manufacturer instructions for removal (this usually involves soaking in warm water). For Waste fabric, lightly dampen your stitching and fabric with water. Leave for a few minutes, then use tweezers to remove the Waste fabric one strand at a time. First remove all the vertical strands by gently pulling from the top upwards, then remove the horizontal strands from gently pulling out to the right or left.

If you are stitching on a light-coloured item or something that will be washed regularly, check your embroidery threads are colour-fast before stitching.

Christmas Stocking

You will need

Your finished design

Backing fabric of your choice

Needle and thread/sewing machine

Dressmaker’s pins

Pencil

Tape measure

Ribbon

Scissors

Iron

  1. Take your finished piece of stitching and press lightly on the wrong side. Following the outline of the stitches, use a pencil to lightly draw a stocking outline on the back of the Aida.
  2. Cut out your stocking, making sure to leave a 2cm seam allowance all around.
  3. Place your cut out stocking onto the backing fabric, trace around it and cut out. Take care to position it correctly depending on your backing fabric. If you use a patterned fabric you need to consider which direction your pattern runs in and how you would like it to appear once finished.
  4. Place your two pieces of fabric right sides together and pin in place.
  5. Cut a 16cm length of ribbon, fold in half right sides out, then place between the two layers of fabric with the loop facing in and the ends protruding out between the seam allowance. Position 3cm down from the top edge of the fabric and pin in place.
  6. Stitch the pieces together following the original pencil outline on the Aida. Press the seams open. To finish the top edge, turn over by 1cm and press in place. Then turn over by 1cm again, encasing the raw edges inside your fold. Press, then neatly stitch in place.
  7. To finish, cut small notches into the seam allowance around any curved parts of the stocking. Trim any excess fabric, then turn right side, using a blunt pencil to make sure the heel and toe of the stocking are fully pushed through.

Aperture Card

You will need

Your finished design

Scissors

Card blank with pre-cut aperture

Double-sided tape

Pencil

Backing material & glue (optional)

  1. Open the card blank and position the aperture centrally over your finished design. Use a pencil to lightly trace around the inside of the aperture onto your Aida (you may prefer to work on the reverse of the Aida). Cut out, leaving a 1.5cm border all around.
  2. Open the card blank and apply double-sided sticky tape around the edges of the aperture, then remove the backing tape.
  3. Place your design face down over the aperture. Check the positioning, then firmly press in place onto the double-sided tape. Work from the top down, smoothing out any wrinkles as you go.

Some aperture card blanks include a backing to hide the reverse of the finished design. You can easily make your own backing using patterned paper.

Covering Buttons

You will need

Finished design

Self-cover buttons kit in the size to match your design

Scissors

Pencil

Iron

  1. Read the manufacturer instructions that come with the button kit - these will usually include a template for you to use. Place the template on your finished design so that your stitching is centrally positioned, then draw around it lightly using a pencil and cut out.
  2. Remove the backing of the button, then position your design centrally over the top of the button. Pull your design tort, taking care not to stretch your stitches, and smooth out any wrinkles that may appear around the edges.
  3. Check the position of your design, then re-attach the button back. As the Aida is quite thick it can be fiddly to add the back while holding the design in place, so put the button face down on a clean, hard surface, then keep pushing down on the button back until it clicks into place.

There are lots of different self-cover buttons available so always familiarise yourself with the instructions for the particular brand you are using.

Making Triangular Bunting

You will need

Finished design

1 fat quarter (approx 50cm x 55cm) of coordinating backing fabric

1m of 25mm bias binding of your choice

Fabric scissors

Sewing kit (tape measure, pins, cotton, needles or sewing machine)

Pencil

Ruler

Knitting needle

For the flags

  1. Take your finished and pressed design and use a pencil to lightly draw a 1cm triangular border around each design on the reverse of your aida. Cut out each design, allowing an additional 1.5cm seam allowance all around.
  2. Using your cut-out pieces as templates, cut three matching triangles from your backing fabric.
  3. Place the design and backing fabric right sides together and pin in place. Stitch along both side edges (using the 1.5cm seam allowance), then trim any excess fabric and snip across the triangular point, taking care not to catch your stitches. Turn right sides out, using a knitting needle to fully turn out the point. Press, then repeat for the other pieces.

Attaching the flags to the bias binding

  1. Fold your bias binding in half lengthways. Press to create a sharp fold along the entire length.
  2. Position your first flag 15cm in from the end of the binding. Slot it into place between the fold in the binding so that the unfinished top edge of your flag is completely covered. Pin in place. Repeat for the other flags, positioning each one approximately 3-5cm apart depending on how spaced out you would like them to be.
  3. To finish, stitch along the length of the binding, approximately 5mm in from the edge to ensure the flags are attached securely. Give everything a final press, then hang in place.

Making a Square Pomander

To make one pomander you will need

Your stitched design

2 x pieces of coordinating fabric, 10cm larger than your stitched design

12cm length of ribbon

Polyester stuffing

Fragrance of your choice (optional)

Dried lavender (optional)

Sewing kit (tape measure, pins, cotton, needles or sewing machine)

Scissors

  1. Take your stitched and pressed design and trim the fabric to create a 5mm border all around for turning under.
  2. Fold each edge under, folding the corners on the diagonal to create a sharp line. Press in place with an iron and secure with a line of stitching all around.
  3. For the pillow, cut two squares of coordinating fabric using your trimmed design for size. Add 2cm extra all around, plus an additional 1.5cm seam allowance.
  4. Place the fabric right sides together and pin in place. Loop the ribbon and insert it between the fabric at the centre top, so that the loop is pointing inwards and the ends protrude out into the seam allowance. Sew around all four edges, leaving a 5cm gap for turning through in the bottom edge. Carefully snip across the corners, then turn right side out using a knitting needle to fully push out the corners.
  5. Stuff lightly using scented polyester toy filling or dried lavender, then slip stitch the gap closed.
  6. Position your finished design centrally on the pillow and attach with slip stitch or fabric glue.

Making a Pin Cushion

You will need

Your stitched design

Backing fabric

Pom-pom trim (optional)

Polyester toy stuffing

Sewing kit (tape measure, pins, cotton, needles or sewing machine)

Scissors

  1. Cut out your stitched and pressed design, leaving a 1.5cm border all around, plus an additional 1.5cm seam allowance. Then cut a piece of backing fabric to the same size.
  2. Place your design and backing fabric right sides together and pin in place. If you are adding pom-pom trim, sandwich the trim between the two layers of fabric with the pom-poms facing inwards, making sure they are not caught in the seam allowance. Stitch all the pieces together, leaving a 5cm gap for turning through in one edge.
  3. Snip across the corners or make small snips around any curves, then turn right side out, using a knitting needle to fully push out the corners if your cushion has them. Stuff fully using polyester toy filling, then slip stitch the opening closed.

Mounting your Design in a Key Ring

You will need

Your finished piece of stitching

A plastic key ring with an aperture to match the size of your design

Backing material of your choice (lightweight card, fabric or felt)

Double-sided tape

Scissors

Pencil

Ruler

  1. Cut out your design, allowing an additional 5mm all around for turning under. Carefully fold the edges under and press in place. Cut a piece of coordinating fabric or paper to the same size - this will act as backing once your design is mounted in your key ring.
  2. Remove the plastic backing from your key ring and position your design in place. Affix your backing of choice to the reverse of your design using double-sided tape, then replace the plastic cover.

The space available in a key ring is very shallow so try to keep your design and backing layers as thin as possible.

Making a Zipped Make-up Bag/Purse/Coin Purse

You will need

Your finished design

Backing fabric of your choice

Zip in the correct length and colour of your choice

Sewing kit (tape measure, pins, cotton, needles or sewing machine)

Ribbon/tassels (optional)

Scissors

Knitting Needle

  1. Cut out your finished and pressed design in a rectangular shape, leaving a 1cm border all around your stitching, plus an additional 1.5cm seam allowance on all sides. Then cut a piece of coordinating backing fabric to the same size.
  2. Using a pin, mark the halfway point along the top edge of the piece of fabric with your design on. Place your design right side up, then place your zip, right side down, on top of your design, aligning the top edge of your fabric with the top edge of your zip. When positioning your zip, take care to position it centrally. To find the centre point of your zip, fold the zip in half, holding the metal stoppers at each end of the zip together. Match the fold of the zip to the centre point you previously marked on your fabric.
  3. Use a line of stitching to fasten the zip to the fabric, approximately 1cm away from the teeth of the zip. Then repeat the process with your backing fabric and the other side of the zip.
  4. With right sides facing each other, stitch your design and backing fabric together, starting at the top right corner and working down the right edge, along the bottom edge and up the left edge. Remember to open the zip halfway before stitching to allow for turning through.
  5. Carefully snip across each corner, then turn right sides out, using a knitting needle to gently push out the corners.

You can embellish your zip pull by adding tassels, ribbon or beads in coordinating colours!

Making a Cafetiere Cover

You will need

Your finished design

Scissors

Backing fabric in the required size

Button

Thin elastic

Sewing kit (tape measure, pins, cotton, needles or sewing machine)

  1. Trim your finished and pressed design into a rectangle, allowing a 1cm border along the top, bottom and right edges and a 2cm border on the left short edge, plus an additional 1.5cm seam allowance all around. Then cut a piece of backing fabric to the same size.
  2. Pin your design and backing fabric together, right sides facing. Form your length of elastic into a loop, then insert it, centrally, between the two layers of fabric on the left side of the design as you are looking at it (the right side when right sides are turned out). The loop should face in and be sandwiched between the fabric, with the ends of the elastic protruding in the seam allowance.
  3. Stitch the pieces together leaving a 5cm gap in the bottom edge for turning through. Carefully snip across the corners with a pair of scissors, then turn right sides out using a knitting needle to fully push out the corners.
  4. Attach the button halfway down and 1cm in from the edge on the left side of your design, then close the gap in the bottom edge using slip stitch. Pass the elastic loop over the button to fasten the cover around your cafetiere.

The elastic used in this project means your cover can stretch to fit a variety of sizes of cafetiere

Making a Square/Rectangular Banner

You will need

Your finished design

Scissors

60cm length of 4mm nylon cord

Sewing kit (tape measure, pins, cotton, needles or sewing machine)

Safety Pin

Pom-pom/ Ric Rac trim (optional)

  1. Cut out your finished and pressed design leaving a 2cm border around the side and bottom edges and 5cm on the top edge, plus an additional 2cm turning under allowance for the side and bottom edges and 3cm on the top edge.
  2. Turn under the side and bottom edges by 2cm, press and then stitch in place.
  3. Turn the top edge under by 3cm, press and fix in place using a line of stitching 5mm in from what was previously the top edge of the fabric. This will create a channel to thread your cord through.
  4. Securely attach the cord to a safety pin, then use the safety pin to thread the cord through the channel at the top of your banner. Cut the cord to the required length, then tie the two ends together in a secure double knot. You can make a feature of the knot, or feed the cord back through the channel so that the knot is hidden inside.
  5. To work out the correct amount of pom-pom/ric rac trim needed (if using), measure the width of your banner and then add 4cm. Cut the trim to length. Position the trim on your banner and pin in place, allowing a 2cm excess of trim on either side. Fold this excess to the back of your banner, then stitch the trim in place using small running stitches, starting on the back, then working along the front until you reach the other end.

To get a crisp fold when you turn your edges under, you might find it helpful to draw border lines on the reverse of your design with a ruler

Making a Drawstring Back Pack

You will need

Finished design

2 x fabric 41cm x 45cm

2 x 1.5 metres of 8-10mm cotton cord

Sewing kit (tape measure, pins, cotton, needles or sewing machine)

Scissors

  1. Cut out your finished and pressed design into a 41cm (w) x 45cm (h) rectangle - this will be the front of the bag. Cut a second piece of fabric to the same size - either in the same material or a coordinating fabric - to make the back of the bag. If you have stitched your design onto a smaller piece of fabric, cut it out with a 2cm border all around, turn under the edges by 1cm and stitch it to one of your bag pieces, ensuring the design is centrally positioned.
  2. Hem the long side edges of both pieces of fabric by turning each edge under by 1cm, then press and stitch in place.
  3. To make the cord housing (for the drawstring), take the front of your bag and fold back 5mm along the top edge to the wrong side of the fabric, then press in place. Next, fold the top edge back again to the wrong side by another 2.5cm and press in place. Stitch along the bottom of the fold, 5mm in from the bottom folded edge. Repeat this for the back of the bag.
  4. Place the front and back pieces together, right sides facing each other, then pin in place along the sides and bottom to secure, but leave the ends of the cord housing open.
  5. Attach one length of cord to a safety pin, then feed it through the cord housing starting at the front left of the bag. Thread it all the way through the front channel and then through the back channel, so that it comes out at the back left of the bag. Repeat this process with the other length of cord, this time working from the front right and finishing at the back right.
  6. Take the two ends of the left piece of cord, make sure that they are even, and put them inside the bag. Pass the ends out through the pinned edges at the lower left of the bag, about 5cm up from the bottom corner, and pin them in place. Repeat for the right side.
  7. Attach the front and back pieces by sewing along the sides and bottom edges of the bag, using a 1.5cm seam allowance, then turn right side out.

Making a Mobile

You will need

Your finished piece of stitching

A piece of plain paper or tracing paper

A piece of light-weight cardboard

2metres of 2mm nylon cord/string

Double-sided sticky tape

Paper glue/sticky tape

Backing material of your choice - patterned/coloured paper, sticky-back plastic, fabric

Scissors

Tape Measure

  1. Cut out each finished pattern piece leaving a one stitch border all around.
  2. Cut the necessary number of pieces of nylon cord or string, using the project picture for reference. Cut the length of the strings according to the height you wish the mobile to hang.
  3. Attach the cord, centrally, to the back of each piece and secure with sticky tape.
  4. Back each piece of the mobile with coloured card or paper cut to size. Attach using paper glue or double-sided tape.

Making an Earphone Case

You will need

Your finished piece of stitching

Backing fabric

8cm of 8mm nylon cord

Lobster clasp keyring

Self adhesive Velcro

Sewing kit
(sewing machine/needle and cotton, pins, scissors, tape measure)

  1. Cut out your finished design so that it measures 8cm x 11cm, with an additional 1cm seam allowance all around. Then cut a piece of backing fabric to the same size.
  2. Press one long edge of each piece to the wrong side by 1cm. Carefully top stitch in place to create a neat edge.
  3. Pin the design and the backing fabric together, right sides facing, ensuring that your top-stitched seams are both on the same side.
  4. Cut a length of nylon cord to 8cm in length. Make a loop with the cord and insert it halfway along the top short edge of your pinned fabric so that the loop is sandwiched between the fabric and the ends stick out in the seam allowance.
  5. Using a 1cm seam allowance, stitch the pieces together along the two short sides and one long side. The side with the top-stitched seams should remain unstitched as they form the opening of the case.
  6. Carefully snip across the corners of the case, turn right side out and press. Cut a piece of self-adhesive Velcro to length so that it comfortably sits inside one of the long open edges. Once happy with the fit, attach the hook part of the Velcro inside one long edge and the loop part on the facing inside edge, so that they can be pressed together.
  7. To finish, attach a lobster clasp keyring to the loop of cord.

Making Cupcake Toppers

You will need

Your finished piece of stitching

Scissors

  1. Cut out each design around the sides and top edges leaving a one stitch border all around. On the lower edge, make a ‘stalk’ by cutting a rectangle that measures six stitches wide by 15 stitches high.

If you’re planning on using your toppers on heavily decorated or iced cakes, you can increase the height of them by simply making the stalk longer.

Making a Towel Trim

You will need

Your finished piece of stitching

Towel

Sewing kit
(sewing machine/needle and cotton, pins, scissors, tape measure)

Fusible web
(optional)

  1. Cut your finished design to size to match the width of your towel, leaving a 1cm border around your stitching, plus add an additional 1.5cm seam allowance all around.
  2. Press back the seam allowance to the reverse of the design and stitch in place to neaten the edges.
  3. Position the trim as desired on your towel and attach using slip stitch or fusible iron-on web.

Making a Doorhanger

You will need

Your finished piece of stitching

A piece of plain paper or tracing paper

Pen or pencil

A piece of light-weight cardboard

Double-sided sticky tape

Paper glue/sticky tape

Backing material of your choice - patterned/coloured paper, sticky-back plastic or fabric

Scissors

  1. Press your finished design. Place a piece of paper over the top of the design and trace the outline of the door hanger. Tip - you can use tracing paper to do this, or hold your stitching and paper up against the window so that the light shines through and illuminates the outline.
  2. Cut out your traced doorhanger shape, then trace around it onto a piece of light-weight cardboard. Cut out your cardboard doorhanger.
  3. On the reverse of your finished design, draw a pencil border of 1.5cm all around the outline of your stitching. You may find you have to leave less border in the curve of the hanger, but leave as much as you possibly can. Cut out your design along the border line.
  4. Using double-sided sticky tape, fix your finished piece to the cardboard template so the edges of your stitching and the template line up and the border protrudes over the edges of the template.
  5. Very carefully snip tiny notches into the border around any curved part of the design, but take care not to snip too close to your stitching. Fold the border back around the cardboard template, smoothing out any rough edges, then fix in place with paper glue or sticky tape.
  6. To make the backing, place your original paper template on your backing material and trace around it. Make sure to place the template the correct way up so that your backing is facing in the correct direction. Cut out your backing material and attach to the reverse of the doorhanger using double-sided tape or glue.

You could use fabric to back your doorhanger - just make sure to add a 1.5cm seam allowance all around before cutting out, so that you can turn under and enclose the raw edges.

Making a Tote Bag

You will need

Half a metre of fabric of your choice

138cm of 2.5cm wide cotton twill tape

Sewing kit
(sewing machine/needle and cotton, pins, scissors, tape measure)

  1. Press your fabric, then cut two 46cm x 41cm rectangles from it.
  2. Pin your two pieces of fabric right sides facing, then stitch together along the two long side edges and the shorter bottom edge.
  3. To create the hem around the top of the bag, turn your fabric right sides out, then turn the top edge back by 1.5cm and press in place. Then turn the top edge back by a further 2.5cm and press. To secure, top stitch all around the top of the bag, 5mm in from the top edge.
  4. To make the straps, fold your twill tape in half, then cut it so that you end up with two pieces each measuring 69cm in length. To neaten the ends, fold each end over by 1cm and secure with a line of stitching.
  5. To position your straps on the bag, measure 5cm in from the side edge of the bag and 4cm down from the top edge, then pin the bottom edge of your strap in place. Repeat for the other side, making sure the tape is flat and not twisted. Once happy with the positioning, fasten each end to the bag by sewing a rectangle of stitches. Start by going across the tape at the bottom edge, then up one side until level with the top edge of the bag, then across and down the other side. Fasten the other end of the strap in the same way, then turn your bag over and repeat for the other side. NB Take care not to stitch through both sides of the bag when attaching the straps!

The bag can be made directly from the fabric that features the design, or the design can be attached to the front as a pocket.

Making a Ring Holder

You will need

Your finished piece of stitching

A piece of mid-weight card

Double-sided sticky tape

Paper glue/sticky tape

Needle and thread in a matching colour

Scissors

Tape Measure

Pencil

  1. On the reverse of your finished design, use a pencil to mark a 1cm border all around your stitching to create an upside down fan shape. Trace over this shape and transfer onto medium-weight card. Cut out your card shape.
  2. Cut out your design following the pencil guide made in Step 1, allowing an additional 1.5cm all around (this will be for turning under).
  3. Fix the design to the card using double-sided sticky tape. There should be a small excess of fabric all around. Make tiny snips along the curved edge of the fabric to help with turning under, then turn the fabric to the back of the card and fix in place with paper glue or double-sided sticky tape.
  4. Gently roll the design into a cone shape, lining up the straight edges at the back. Fix the cone in place by positioning several pieces of strong sticky tape across the inside adjoining edges to hold them together.
  5. To secure the construction of the cone, use ladder stitch to lace the two outside edges together. Start at the bottom of the cone and work up, pulling tightly as you go and tying off tightly at the top point.

Making a Trinket Box

You will need

Your finished piece of stitching

Mid-weight card

Double-sided sticky tape

Paper glue/sticky tape

Needle and thread in a matching colour

Scissors

Tape Measure

Fabric/felt/coloured card

  1. Take your finished design for one side and on the back of the fabric mark out a rectangle shape around your stitching. Cut out the rectangle, leaving an additional 1.5cm seam allowance on each edge. Repeat for each side.
  2. Cut four pieces of medium-weight card (one for each side of the box), each measuring the same size as your stitched design. Attach a piece of card to the reverse of each design using double-sided tape. Press the excess fabric border back to the reverse of the card and secure with double-sided tape. Ensure the design is positioned centrally and that the edges are straight, smooth and taut (but don’t overstretch).
  3. Decide how you would like the pattern to run around the box, then take your first two sides and ladder stitch them together down one long edge. Add the third and fourth sides in the same way, then finally connect the fourth and first sides.
  4. Cut a piece of card to fit the bottom of the box. You could use coloured card, or cover it in fabric or felt. Place it in position and attach using either fabric glue or small stitches in matching sewing thread.
  5. To make the lid, trace around the base of your box onto a piece of medium-weight coloured card. Add tabs on each side of the square as shown in the illustration. Cut out the finished shape, then lightly score along the black lines and gently fold your cardboard back to create the sides of the lid. Fix the tabs in place using strong craft glue.

Making Cut-Out Motifs

You will need

Your finished design

Scissors

Light or medium-weight card

Paper glue/double-sided tape

Pencil

Tape measure

  1. Decide what shape your design is going on - for example, a circle, square or rectangle. Using a pencil, lightly draw the shape onto the reverse of the fabric, leaving at least a 1cm border around your stitching. Trace this shape onto paper, then transfer onto card and cut out.
  2. Cut out your stitched design, following the border line but allowing an additional 1.5cm for turning under.
  3. Attach the card to the reverse of your design using double-sided sticky tape. For accurate placement, align the card shape with the pencil outline on your fabric. Check the placement and if happy, turn back the excess fabric border to the reverse of the card to create a neat edge. Fix in place using paper glue, sticky tape or double-sided tape.
  4. Attach your cut-out motif to the required item - stationery, pen pots, magnets etc using glue or double-sided sticky tape.

For a neat finish on corners, fold and then refold your fabric to create a diagonal crease - as if you were wrapping a present. For curved edges, make very tiny snips along the curve as this reduces the bulk of the material and makes for a smoother finish.

Making a Mug Hug

You will need

Your finished design

Scissors

Backing fabric in the required size

Small button

Thin elastic

Sewing kit
(sewing machine/needle and cotton, pins, scissors, tape measure)

  1. Trim your finished and pressed design into a rectangle, allowing a 1cm border along the top, bottom and right edges and a 2cm border on the left short edge, plus an additional 1.5cm seam allowance all around. Then cut a piece of backing fabric to the same size.
  2. Pin your design and backing fabric together, right sides facing. Form your length of elastic into a small loop, then insert it, centrally, between the two layers of fabric on the left side of the design as you are looking at it (the right side when right sides are turned out) and pin in place. The loop should face in and be sandwiched between the fabric, with the ends of the elastic protruding in the seam allowance.
  3. Stitch the pieces together leaving a 5cm gap in the bottom edge for turning through. Carefully snip across the corners with a pair of scissors, then turn right sides out using a knitting needle to fully push out the corners.
  4. Attach the button halfway down and 1cm in from the edge on the left side of your design, then close the gap in the bottom edge using slip stitch. Pass the elastic loop over the button to fasten the cover around your mug.

The elastic used in this project means your cover can stretch to fit a variety of sizes of cups, mugs or glasses.

Making a Loop and Dowel Banner

You will need

Your finished piece of stitching

Backing fabric of your choice

0.5m ribbon for making the loops - at least 10mm in width

Wooden dowel, cut to the required length

75cm braided cord

Sewing kit
(sewing machine/needle and cotton, pins, scissors, tape measure)

Scissors

Pencil

Ruler

  1. Press your finished design, turn it over to the reverse and use a pencil to lightly mark out a rectangular border of 2-3cm around your stitching. Cut out your rectangle, allowing an additional 1.5cm seam allowance on top of the border you have marked. Cut a piece of backing fabric to the same size.
  2. To work out the length of ribbon you need for each loop, drape the ribbon over the dowel so that it makes a ‘tunnel’ the rod can easily pass through. Add 3cm to this length and then cut the ribbon. Fold the piece of ribbon in half, right sides out, and stitch across the short ‘open’ edge to secure the ends and close the loop. Repeat to make as many loops as required. Tip - The length of the ribbon pieces /size of the loops will depend upon the thickness of your piece of dowel.
  3. Place your finished piece of stitching on top of the backing fabric - right sides together - and pin in place. Insert your ribbon loops across the top edge at evenly spaced intervals. The loops should be facing inwards, so they are sandwiched between the design and the backing fabric, with the stitched ends poking out into the seam allowance. Tip - Line up the outer edge of the two outer loops with the top corners of the rectangle you marked in Step 1 - this will ensure your loops line up with the edges of the banner.
  4. Follow your pencil lines and stitch around all four edges of the banner using a 1.5cm seam allowance and leaving a gap in the lower edge for turning through. Take care not to catch you loops in the seam as you sew the sides together. Once finished, carefully snip across each corner, then turn right side out. Use a blunt pencil or knitting needle to fully push out the corners. Press, then close the gap on the lower edge using slip stitch.
  5. Thread the dowel through the ribbon loops, then knot the braided cord around each end and hang.

You can increase/decrease the number of loops you use depending on the width of your design and the width of your ribbon.

Making a Box Frame Clock

You will need

Your finished piece of stitching

Box frame to match the size of your design

Small bezel clock face in diameter to match your design

Double-sided tape

Double-sided adhesive foam craft pads/glue dots

Scissors

  1. Take your finished piece of stitching and frame it as in the usual way to frame a picture. Remove the glass from the frame to ensure easy access to the clock.
  2. Attach glue dots to the reverse of your clock – or a double-sided foam craft pad cut to size – then stick to the stitched piece in the required position and press in place until fixed.

Making Fridge Magnets

You will need

Your finished piece of stitching

A piece of lightweight card

Double-sided tape

Scissors

Self-adhesive magnets

  1. Take your finished piece of stitching and attach it to the card in the usual way of backing cut-out motifs.
  2. Attach the self-adhesive magnet in a central position to the reverse of your motif. Tip – if you have a large or more complex shape design, you may want to use multiple magnets to ensure a stronger grip.

Making a Circular Bag

You will need

Your finished design

One or two pieces of felt/backing fabric

Interfacing (optional)

150mm diameter cord in required length

Press-stud (optional)

Sewing kit/sewing machine

  1. Measure the diameter of your finished design, add 6cm to this measurement and draw two circles in the corresponding size onto your fabric. Add an additional 1.5 cm seam allowance around each circle, then cut out. If you want to use the bag for heavier items, you can also attach some interfacing to the reverse of each piece at this point to add extra strength.

    Note - If you have stitched your design directly onto fabric or felt, cut out the circle as above around your design – ensuring that it’s centrally positioned – then cut out a second circle to match. If you have stitched your design on a separate piece of fabric and wish to mount it on the bag, do so now by attaching it to the front piece of the bag.
  2. Place the front and back panels right sides together and pin in place.
  3. Measure halfway down the bag from the centre top point, then draw a horizontal line across the bag from side to side. Cut your cord to the required length (note that the strap will be fixed and not adjustable), then place the cord inside the bag and feed the raw ends out through the seam allowance on each side, in line with the halfway line. Allow the raw ends to protrude by 3cm on each side.
  4. To mark the bag opening, measure halfway down between the centre top of the bag and the horizontal centre line you made in Step 3, then draw another horizontal line across the bag. Starting at the right end of this line and using the 1.5cm seam allowance, stitch the front and back pieces together, following the curve of the circle down, around the bottom and up the other side, then come to a finish at the left end of the line. Take care to stitch through your cord as well – you may want to double back over the stitching at these points to strengthen the seam.
  5. Carefully make notches around the stitched curves. For the bag opening, turn the unstitched curved top edge of the front panel down to the wrong side by 1.5cm and press in place, then repeat for the back panel. Turn the bag right sides out and press.
  6. Secure the hem of the bag opening by using a line of neat top stitch around the curve. Work the top stitch on the front panel first, then the back panel, taking care not to stitch them together. To finish, add a press-stud fastening inside the centre top of the bag.

Making a Tea Cosy

You will need

Your finished piece of stitching

Backing fabric/lining fabric

Wadding/batting

12cm ribbon

Sewing kit/sewing machine

Template

  1. Print and cut out the provided template at 100% and place it on the reverse of your finished stitching, making sure that the design is centralised. Using a pencil, trace around the template onto the reverse of the fabric, then cut it out, allowing an additional 1.5cm seam allowance all around.
  2. Repeat the above process three more times on your backing/lining fabric to create one backing piece and two lining pieces.
  3. Use the template to cut two dome shapes from the wadding. You won’t need to add a seam allowance for these – instead, trim each wadding piece by approximately 12mm on each side and around the curve. This is to make it smaller so that it sits comfortably inside the lining.
  4. Turn up (to the wrong side) a 1.5cm hem along the long straight edge of each of the four fabric pieces. Press in place using an iron.
  5. Place the two outer pieces of the tea cosy together – right sides facing – and pin in place. Take your length of ribbon, fold it in half and position it centrally at the top of the dome. Insert it between the two layers so that the loop faces in and the ends protrude into the seam allowance, then pin in place. Using your original pencil line as a guide, stitch the outer pieces together using the 1.5cm seam allowance. Take care to leave the long bottom edge open. Then stitch the lining pieces together in the same way.
  6. Carefully snip notches around the curves of the domes. Turn the outer cosy right side out, but leave the lining wrong sides out.
  7. Place the lining inside the outer cosy, matching up your side seams – wiggle it into place to ensure a good fit. Then take a piece of your wadding and insert it between the lining and the outer cosy. Repeat for the other side and manipulate into place to get a good fit.
  8. To finish, match the bottom folded edge of the lining to the bottom folded edge of the outer cosy, then pin and stitch together.

You can alter the template of the tea cosy to match your teapot. Simply measure the height of your teapot and add 3cm.

Making a Drawstring Pouch

You will need

Aida, cross stitch chart and threads

Backing fabric (optional)

5mm ribbon or cord

Sewing kit/sewing machine

  1. The pouch is made from one piece of fabric. Decide on the shape and size you would like the pouch to be – a good indicator is to measure the size of the finished design, then add 3 to 5cm around the sides and lower edge and 6-8cm to the top edge. Double your width measurement, then mark the entire size on your stitching fabric and add an additional 1.5cm seam allowance all around. Once you’re happy with the size, cut out your fabric.
  2. To make the pouch the fabric is folded in half, so position your stitching centrally on the right side of your marked out area. Once you’re happy with the position, stitch the design as usual. Tip – when positioning your design, remember to ignore the seam allowance.
  3. Take your finished piece, then on the reverse, measure 3cm down from the top edge on each side and cut a horizontal notch into the seam allowance. Fold the seam allowance in, then press and stitch in place.
  4. Next fold the top edge down to the same level as your notches, then stitch in place, 5mm from the folded down top edge. This creates the channel for your cord to pass through. Attach your cord to a very small safety pin and thread it through the channel, making sure there is plenty left dangling at either end.
  5. Turn your fabric right side up, then fold double, bringing the left side across to the right so that the right sides are facing each other. Stitch the bag together, starting below the notch of the channel, down the side and across the bottom. Very carefully snip across the two bottom corners.
  6. Turn your bag right sides out through the top opening, gather your cord and cut to length as required.

You can use contrasting fabric to make the back panel of the bag if you prefer. You simply need to cut a panel to the same size as your front piece and attach them side by side to form a rectangle before starting on Step 3.

Making a Baby Building Block

You will need

Your finished design

Child safe polyester stuffing

Sewing kit/sewing machine

  1. On the reverse of your stitched piece, mark out a 1cm border around each design, plus an additional 1.5cm seam allowance. Cut out your designs so that you have six pieces. Tip – the cube has precise corners that need to fit together, so make sure all your sides are exactly the same size before you start stitching.
  2. Decide how you would like your finished designs to sit together, then lay them out in the following way:
  3. Following the numerical sequence, begin stitching your designs together. To start, pin sides 1 and 2 together (right sides facing), taking care to ensure the edges are fully aligned. Stitch the pieces together along the one edge as shown, using a 1.5 seam allowance. Then repeat until you have attached all six sides and your piece looks like the diagram.
  4. The next part is trickier as it involves making the cube 3D, but it follows the same process as in Step 3. Continue sewing the edges together to form the cube – you will need to attach one edge of piece 2 to piece 6 and one edge to piece 5, then attach one edge of piece 4 to piece 5 and one edge to piece 6. Finally, attach one edge of piece 1 to piece 6 and another edge to piece 5. Leave the final edge of piece 1 open for now.
  5. Very carefully snip across the corners, then turn the cube right side out through the one remaining open seam. Push out the corners.
  6. Fill the cube with stuffing as required, then close the open seam with slip stitch.

Making a Heart Pomander

You will need

Your finished stitched design

Backing fabric

12cm of ribbon

Polyester stuffing/essential oils/dried lavender

Sewing kit/sewing machine

  1. Take your finished piece of stitching and on the reverse lightly draw a heart shape around the design, leaving a 1cm border all around the stitching. Cut out the heart, allowing an additional 1.5cm seam allowance all around. Then cut out a heart from the backing fabric to match.
  2. Pin the two pieces right sides together.
  3. To make the hanging loop, cut a length of ribbon approximately 12cm in length, then fold it in half and insert it between the aida and the backing fabric at the top middle point of the heart. The loop should be facing inwards so it is sandwiched between the two layers of fabric, with the ends protruding into the seam allowance. Pin in place.
  4. Stitch the pieces together, leaving a 3cm gap for turning through on one of the lower edges of the heart. Carefully snip across the bottom point of the heart, make small notches around the top curves, then turn right sides out.
  5. Stuff the heart with a filling of your choice – dried lavender works well or add a few drops of essential oil to some polyester stuffing – then use slip stitch to close the open seam.

Making a Travel Card Holder

You will need

Your finished stitched design

Backing fabric (25cm x 25cm)

2 pieces of 11 x 7.5cm medium weight card

Double-sided tape

Pencil

Ruler

Scissors

Sewing kit/sewing machine

  1. Take one of the card rectangles and attach it centrally to the reverse of your finished stitched design using double-sided tape. Then use a pencil and ruler to lightly draw a 5mm border around the card and cut out your fabric, adding an additional 1cm seam allowance all around as you go.
  2. Along each edge, fold back the seam allowance to the wrong side and press in place, ensuring you have neat points on each corner. Along the top edge, use a line of top stitch to secure the top hem.
  3. Repeat Steps 1 and 2 to make the back panel of the holder, this time using your backing fabric in place of your stitched design.
  4. Place the front panel on top of the back panel, wrong sides together, so that your stitched design is facing up. Carefully align the edges and pin the two panels together.
  5. Starting at the top right corner of the holder, top stitch the front and back pieces together by working down the right side, then along the bottom edge and up the left side.

Below the fabric you should be able to feel the edge of the card. Use this as a guide and stitch as close as possible to the card without actually stitching through it.

Making a Passport Cover

You will need

Aida 30cm (w) x 20cm (h)

Backing/lining fabric 50cm x 20cm

Sewing machine/sewing Kit

Scissors

Tape measure

  1. Stitch your design on the right hand side of the aida so that you can fold it in half once finished – the un-stitched left side will create the back of the cover.
  2. Trim the aida to 23cm (w) x 15cm (h), plus an additional 1cm seam allowance all around. Cut a piece of lining fabric to the same size, then cut two smaller rectangles each measuring 6.5cm x 17cm which will make up the inner flaps.
  3. Take one small rectangle and fold back one long edge by 5mm to the wrong side. Top stitch in place to create a neat hem. Repeat for the other rectangle.
  4. Lay the lining fabric right side up, then pin one flap at either end of the fabric – also with right sides facing up. The hemmed/top stitched edge should be facing inwards. Place your cross stitched aida on top, right side facing down, and pin the layers together.
  5. Using a 1cm seam allowance, stitch along each of the four edges, leaving a small gap for turning through. Carefully mitre the corners, then turn your stitching right sides out, taking care to fully push out the corners. Close the remaining gap with slip stitch.

Making a Tablet Cover

You will need

Your finished piece of stitching

Two fat quarters of felt

One fat quarter of lining fabric

Scissors

Pen/Pencil

Tape measure

Sewing kit/sewing machine

Self adhesive Velcro

  1. Lay your tablet on a piece of felt and mark out a rectangle around it, leaving an additional 5cm all around. Cut out and use to make a second rectangle, but this time add an additional 8cm to the top edge – this will form the fold-over flap of the case. Cut a piece of lining fabric to the same size as your second rectangle.
  2. Place your second rectangle and lining fabric right sides together, pin in place then sew together along each edge, leaving a small gap for turning through. Mitre the corners, turn right sides out and fully push out the corners.
  3. Take your first felt rectangle and turn the top edge back to the wrong side by 1cm. Top stitch in place to create a neat edge. Attach your finished stitched piece as desired on the right side of the felt to make the front of the case. Remember to allow a little room between the design and the top edge to attach your fastening.
  4. Place your front piece on top of the lined back rectangle, with the front right side down and the lining facing down as well. Line up the bottom corners, pin together, then stitch in place along the three edges of the front piece using a 1cm seam allowance. Mitre the corners then turn right sides out.
  5. Mark the centre point along the top edge of the front piece and attach a small piece of self-adhesive Velcro to make the fastening – with the corresponding piece positioned in the same place on the flap lining so that the two meet when the flap is folded down.

Making a E-Reader Case

You will need

Finished stitched piece

One fat quarter backing fabric

One fat quarter lining fabric

Wadding/batting

Sewing machine/Sewing Kit

Tape measure

Scissors

Iron

  1. Trim your finished design so the aida measures 17cm (w) x 23cm (h) (check these dimensions will house your E-reader and increase slightly if necessary), then cut a piece of backing fabric and two pieces of lining fabric to the same size.
  2. Cut two rectangles from the wadding, the same size as your fabric pieces. Trim each wadding piece by approximately 12mm on each side to make it smaller so that it sits comfortably inside the lining.
  3. Turn back (to the wrong side) a 1cm hem along one short edge of each of the four fabric pieces. Press in place using an iron. These will create the top opening of the case and lining.
  4. Place the two outer pieces of the case together – right sides facing and with the folded back hems at the top – and pin in place. Stitch together along three sides using a 1cm seam allowance. Take care to leave the top edge open. Then stitch the lining pieces together in the same way.
  5. Mitre the corners of the outer case and lining. Turn the outer case right side out and fully push out the corners, but leave the lining wrong sides out.
  6. Place the lining inside the outer case and match up the side seams. Take one piece of wadding and insert it between the lining and the outer case, then repeat for the other side.
  7. To finish, match the top folded edge of the lining to the top folded edge of the outer case, then pin and stitch together.

Making a Eye Mask

You will need

Your finished piece of stitching

Small piece of backing fabric to fit your mask

Thin elastic in the length required for fit

Wadding/batting

Sewing machine/Sewing Kit

Scissors

Template

Pencil

Tape measure

  1. Trace around the template onto the back of your finished piece of stitching, ensuring the design is centred. Cut out, leaving an additional 1cm seam allowance all around. Then cut a piece of backing fabric to the same size.
  2. Use the template to cut out a piece of wadding (do not add seam allowance). Then trim the wadding by 5mm all around so it will fit comfortably inside the mask.
  3. Lay the front of the mask on top of the backing fabric, right sides together, then place these on top of the wadding and pin all three layers together.
  4. Measure halfway down at each end of the mask and insert your piece of elastic at these points. Place the elastic between the front and back pieces of fabric, so that it’s contained inside the mask with just the ends poking out through the seam allowance at the halfway points.
  5. Sew all around the mask using a 1cm seam allowance and leaving a small gap for turning through. Stitch across the elastic several times to fasten in place, but take care not to catch the main bulk of the elastic as you sew the layers together.
  6. Cut small notches all around the curved edges of the mask, then carefully turn right sides out – the wadding should now be inside the mask.

Making a Glasses Case

You will need

Your finished stitched piece

One fat quarter of lining fabric

Sewing machine/Sewing kit

Tape measure

Scissors

  1. Cut out the finished design leaving a 1cm border all around the stitching, plus an additional 1cm seam allowance. Cut a piece of lining fabric to the same size.
  2. Place your stitching and lining fabric right sides together, pin in place and stitch together along all four sides using the 1cm seam allowance, leaving a small gap for turning through.
  3. Mitre the corners, turn right sides out and fully push out the corners, then close the gap using slip stitch.
  4. Fold your stitching horizontally in half so that you have one pattern on the front and one on the back. Your stitched designs should be right sides out with the lining fabric enclosed inside. Line up all edges to create an even rectangle and pin in place.
  5. Measure 5mm in from the outside edge and secure the case by top stitching along one short edge and the one long open edge. Leave the remaining short edge un-stitched to create the case opening.

Making an Embroidery Hoop Pin Cushion

You will need

Your finished design

Paper

Pencil/pen

Scissors

Sewing kit

Polyester stuffing

10cm embroidery hoop

washi tape/paint/extra fabric (optional)

  1. Draw a circle 25cm in diameter onto a piece of paper and cut out. Trace the circle onto the reverse of your finished stitched piece, ensuring the design is centred. Add an additional 1cm seam allowance all around the circle, then cut out.
  2. Using a needle and thread, tack all around the seam allowance with loose, long running stitches. Make sure you leave plenty of thread at each end for gathering up.
  3. Gently pull on the thread to loosely gather the circle into a cushion shape, then fill with stuffing. Continue to gather the cushion more tightly and fill with more stuffing until it is completely packed and firm and as round as possible.
  4. Firmly tie off the thread ends and stitch them back into the bottom of the cushion, continuing to make the shape as round as possible. You can glue or stitch a smaller circle of fabric to the bottom of the cushion to cover your stitching if you would like.
  5. Sit your cushion on top of the embroidery hoop and attach using fabric glue, double-sided tape or small stitches.

You can decorate your hoop using paint, fabric strips or washi tape.

Making a Sewing Needle Case

You will need

Aida – 25cm width x 16cm height

Lining fabric - 25cm x 16cm

One sheet of felt

One tassel

Tape measure

Scissors

Sewing machine/sewing kit

Iron

  1. Stitch the design centrally on the right half of the aida, the empty left side will make the back of the case.
  2. Cut a piece of lining fabric to the same size as the aida. Place your finished piece and the lining fabric right sides together and pin in place. Stitch together using a 1cm seam allowance and leaving a small gap in one edge for turning through.
  3. Mitre the corners and turn right sides out. Use a chopstick or blunt pencil to fully push out the corners, then close the gap using slip stitch. Fold the case in half and press down the spine to create a centre crease.
  4. Cut two rectangles of felt in a coordinating colour, each measuring 14cm x 10cm. Lay the rectangles on top of each other, fold in half vertically and very lightly press. Unfold the rectangles and align their centre fold with the centre fold on the case, approximately 1.5cm down from the top edge.
  5. Place the tassel between the bottom felt rectangle and the lining fabric. Top stitch down the centre fold of the case and through the felt rectangles and tassel as well, so that the rectangles create a ‘book’ inside the case.

Making a Luggage Tag

You will need

Your finished stitched design

Two 9 x 15cm luggage tags (or card to make your own)

Tape measure

Ruler

Pencil

Craft knife or scalpel

Scissors

Glue/double-sided tape

  1. Trim your finished design leaving a 1cm border all around your stitching.
  2. Mark a window the same size as your finished design on one of the labels. Cut it out carefully using a scalpel or craft knife.
  3. Attach the back of the stitching to the front of the uncut label with glue or double-sided tape.
  4. Apply glue or double-sided tape to the back of the cut label, around the cut-out window, and stick it on top of the stitched piece.

Making a Sewing Machine Cover

You will need

Finished stitched design

1 metre in fabric of your choice

1.5 metres of 20mm ribbon

Sewing machine/Sewing kit

Tape measure

Pencil

Ruler

Scissors

Pom-pom trim (optional)

  1. Take your finished stitched piece and follow the instructions for how to make a pocket.
  2. Measure your sewing machine to work out how long you need the cover to be. Measure from the bottom back to the bottom front and also the width from end to end. Add 5cm to each of these measurements, then mark out two rectangles on your fabric to the correct size and cut out. One rectangle is the outer cover and the other is the lining.
  3. Take the outer cover and fold it in half horizontally (right sides out). Centrally position your pocket on one side of the cover, then pin and stitch in place. Open up your cover so you have the full rectangle again. The right side (with the pocket) should be facing up.
  4. To make the ties, cut four lengths of ribbon, each 25-30cm in length. Measure 12cm up from the bottom corner of the cover and pin your first piece of ribbon to the fabric. The main length of the ribbon should be laying on your fabric with 2cm sticking out over the edge. Repeat this for the other three corners.
  5. Lay your second rectangle of fabric (the lining) right side down on top of the cover and ribbons and pin in place. Using a 1cm seam allowance, sew around all four edges, leaving a small gap in one edge for turning through. Mitre the corners, turn right sides out and fully push out the corners using a chopstick or blunt pencil. Close the gap using slip stitch.

You can attach a length of pom-pom trim to the lower edge of the cover for an extra finishing touch.

Making a Peg Bag

You will need

Aida 50cm (w) x 40cm (h)

Co-ordinating fabric (100cm x 50cm)

A wooden coat hanger (at least 30cm wide)

Sewing machine/sewing kit

Scissors

Tape measure

Pencil

Large piece/pieces of paper

  1. Stitch your design on the aida as shown.
  2. Make a paper template for your peg bag. To do this, measure the width of your coat hanger and add an additional 6cm; this measurement is the width of your paper and the length needs to be 50cm. Tip - you may need to tape multiple smaller pieces together to make a large enough piece of paper. Next, mark a horizontal line the full width of your paper, 20cm down from the top edge. Then mark a second horizontal line 28cm up from the bottom edge. These represent the lower front and upper front edges of your peg bag respectively. Finally, place the coat hanger on the paper so that the base of the hook is aligned with the top edge of the paper. Trace around the shoulders of the hanger, then out by an extra 2.5cm before drawing a straight line down to the bottom edge of the paper. Once you’re happy with the shape, cut the template out.
  3. Place the template onto the wrong side of your coordinating fabric and trace around it in full to make the back piece of your peg bag. Mark out a second piece (the front top piece) using the guideline you marked previously. Finally, place the template on the back of your aida and mark out the bottom front piece in the same way. Cut out all your pieces.
  4. Fold under by 1cm along the lower edge of the top piece and the upper edge of the bottom piece and press. Then, right sides together, place the top front piece on top of the bottom front piece (your stitched design), so that the folded lower edge of the top piece and folded upper edge of the bottom piece line up. Pin in place. Using a 1cm seam allowance, stitch in 8cm from each side. These stitched seams form either side of the peg bag’s opening.
  5. Press your seams open. Turn your joined pieces right side up and neatly top stitch all the way along both pressed edges to secure the hems. This makes up your front piece.
  6. Right sides together, lay your front piece on top of your back piece of fabric and pin in place. Using a 1cm seam allowance, stitch around both sides and the top, but leave a 1cm opening in the top (this is for your coat hanger hook to protrude through). Make sure to leave the lower edge of your bag open as well.
  7. Carefully snip into the curves, then turn right sides out and press. Place the bag over your coat hanger so that the hook pokes through the gap in the top and the shoulders fit snugly.
  8. Finally, press under the front and back bottom edges by 1cm and neatly top stitch together to close the bag.

Making Bookends

You will need

Heavy Duty White Metal L-Shaped Bookends, approximately 9.4cm (w) x 22cm (h) x 13.5 (L)

Scissors

Ruler

Pencil

Double-sided sticky tape/glue

  1. Stitch your design on the plastic canvas as shown.
  2. Carefully cut out each character as shown in the project photograph. On the outer edge, follow the character outline leaving a space of two squares between your stitching and cut line. On the lower edge and side edge that will go against the books, leave a 3cm border between your stitching and cut line and make your cut line straight.
  3. On the straight side edge, leave a two square border from your stitching, then fold the rest of the canvas under to create a straight edge. It can be a bit stiff, so crease it well to ensure it stays folded back. Repeat for the lower edge. Using your scissors, make a small diagonal snip into the fold where the bottom and side edges meet to help create a sharp fold and corner point.
  4. Apply double-sided sticky tape/glue along both folded back edges. Line up the edges of your design and bookend, then press your design in place against the bookend. You may want to use a heavy book to keep the edges in place until they have fully bonded. Repeat for the other bookend and design.

Making Slippers

You will need

A pair of mule slippers

Needle and thread/sewing kit

Scissors

Tape measure

Pencil

Ruler

  1. Measure the width of your slippers.
  2. Iron your finished piece. On the reverse of your aida, mark out a rectangle around the design. The width should measure the same as the width of your slipper. The height should be the same as the design, plus 0.5cm on the top and 0.5cm on the bottom. Then add an additional 1.5cm all around for turning under.
  3. Cut out your design, then fold under your 1.5cm seam allowance all around. Press and top stitch in place to ensure neat edges.
  4. Position your design on your slipper, then pin in place. Attach securely using slip stitch along each edge. Then repeat for the other slipper.

Making a Wallet

You will need

Backing fabric (one fat quarter)

Self adhesive hook and loop tape in the same length as the width of your finished design, plus 2cm

Sewing machine/sewing kit

Scissors

Tape measure

Pencil

Chopstick/pencil

  1. Press your finished, stitched piece. On the reverse of your aida, mark out a square, leaving a 1cm border around each side of the stitching, plus an additional 1.5cm seam allowance all around. Then cut out.
  2. Cut a piece of backing fabric to the same size.
  3. Take your stitched piece and fold the top edge back (to the wrong side) by 0.5cm and press in place. Then fold under again by a further 1cm so that the raw edge is enclosed in the fold. Press, then top stitch the hem neatly in place. Repeat the process with your backing fabric.
  4. Place your two pieces right sides together and pin in place. Stitch together along the two side edges and bottom edge, making sure to leave the top edge open. Carefully snip across each corner, then turn your wallet right side out and fully poke out the corners using a chopstick or pencil.
  5. Apply the self-adhesive hook and loop tape along the full length of the inside top edges of the wallet.