Your Template Library

From the backing fabric cut:
one 40 x 30cm large panel
one 20 x 30cm small panel

1. Take your stitched and pressed design and trim the fabric back to create a 1cm seam allowance all round.
2. Take your backing fabric panels, then press and stitch a narrow double hem along one 30cm edge of both the large and the small panel.
3. Place the large panel over one end of the cross stitch fabric with the right sides facing inwards and the raw edges matching. Pin in in place, then pin the small panel at the other end.
4. Machine stitch all around the outside edge using a 1cm seam allowance. Turn the cover the right side out and gently push out the corners with a blunt pencil. Press lightly and insert the cushion pad.

1. Take your stitched and pressed design. Fold back and press the side and bottom edges so that there is a 1cm margin from the edge of the stitching. Press back a 1cm hem along the top edge.
2. Trim the seam allowance beyond the fold back to 6cm along the top edge and 1cm on the other edges. Unfold the hems, press back the corners, then refold.
3. Machine/hand stitch the top edge, 1cm from the fold. Pin the pocket to the item you wish to add it to and sew down along the side and bottom edges.

1. If the coaster kit comes with a template, position the template centrally over your design and draw around it with a pencil. Cut out, leaving a 5mm border all around. If the kit doesn’t include a template, remove the back of the coaster, place your design into the recess and position as necessary. Use a pencil to lightly draw around the inside of the recess onto the back of your Aida, then cut out, leaving a 5mm border as above.
2. Fold each edge to the wrong side of your design using the 5mm border and press in place. To get a sharp corner, unfold the edges and fold each corner point in diagonally, then refold the edges along their original lines. Press all folds in place once more for a crisp, flat finish, then insert your design into the coaster and reattach the back.

1. To make the backing, place the inner hoop onto your backing material and draw around the outside of it using a pencil. Cut out and put to one side.
2. Place the outer hoop centrally over your stitched design and position as desired. Use a pencil to lightly draw an outline around the inside of the hoop onto the Aida. Cut out your Aida following the line, leaving a 2.5cm border all around.
3. Place your finished design between the two hoops, position as required and tighten. Your design should be tort but not over-stretched.
4. Turn the frame over and apply double-sided tape around the entire inside edge of the inner hoop. Remove the backing tape, then fold the excess border fabric inside the hoop, pressing it firmly down onto the double-sided tape and smoothing out any lumps.
5. To finish, add your backing material by applying a thin layer of PVA glue to the back of the hoop. Place the backing material on top of the glue - right side up - and press firmly in place until set.

1. Ensure the item you’re planning to stitch on is wrinkle free.
2. Cut your soluble Aida/Waste fabric and stabiliser to the correct dimensions depending on the size of your design.
3. Position you soluble Aida/Waste fabric over the area you plan to stitch on and lightly pin in place. Then attach using long tacking stitches.
4. Fix the stabiliser to your item (either iron or tack in place) on the reverse of where you have attached your soluble Aida/Waste fabric.
5. Stitch your design as usual. Once finished, remove the excess fabric. For soluble Aida, follow the manufacturer instructions for removal (this usually involves soaking in warm water). For Waste fabric, lightly dampen your stitching and fabric with water. Leave for a few minutes, then use tweezers to remove the Waste fabric one strand at a time. First remove all the vertical strands by gently pulling from the top upwards, then remove the horizontal strands from gently pulling out to the right or left.

1. Take your finished piece of stitching and press lightly on the wrong side. Following the outline of the stitches, use a pencil to lightly draw a stocking outline on the back of the Aida.
2. Cut out your stocking, making sure to leave a 2cm seam allowance all around.
3. Place your cut out stocking onto the backing fabric, trace around it and cut out. Take care to position it correctly depending on your backing fabric. If you use a patterned fabric you need to consider which direction your pattern runs in and how you would like it to appear once finished.
4. Place your two pieces of fabric right sides together and pin in place.
5. Cut a 16cm length of ribbon, fold in half right sides out, then place between the two layers of fabric with the loop facing in and the ends protruding out between the seam allowance. Position 3cm down from the top edge of the fabric and pin in place.
6. Stitch the pieces together following the original pencil outline on the Aida. Press the seams open. To finish the top edge, turn over by 1cm and press in place. Then turn over by 1cm again, encasing the raw edges inside your fold. Press, then neatly stitch in place.
7. To finish, cut small notches into the seam allowance around any curved parts of the stocking. Trim any excess fabric, then turn right side, using a blunt pencil to make sure the heel and toe of the stocking are fully pushed through.

1. Open the card blank and position the aperture centrally over your finished design. Use a pencil to lightly trace around the inside of the aperture onto your Aida (you may prefer to work on the reverse of the Aida). Cut out, leaving a 1.5cm border all around.
2. Open the card blank and apply double-sided sticky tape around the edges of the aperture, then remove the backing tape.
3. Place your design face down over the aperture. Check the positioning, then firmly press in place onto the double-sided tape. Work from the top down, smoothing out any wrinkles as you go.

1. Read the manufacturer instructions that come with the button kit - these will usually include a template for you to use. Place the template on your finished design so that your stitching is centrally positioned, then draw around it lightly using a pencil and cut out.
2. Remove the backing of the button, then position your design centrally over the top of the button. Pull your design tort, taking care not to stretch your stitches, and smooth out any wrinkles that may appear around the edges.
3. Check the position of your design, then re-attach the button back. As the Aida is quite thick it can be fiddly to add the back while holding the design in place, so put the button face down on a clean, hard surface, then keep pushing down on the button back until it clicks into place.

For the flags

1. Take your finished and pressed design and use a pencil to lightly draw a 1cm triangular border around each design on the reverse of your aida. Cut out each design, allowing an additional 1.5cm seam allowance all around.
2. Using your cut-out pieces as templates, cut three matching triangles from your backing fabric.
3. Place the design and backing fabric right sides together and pin in place. Stitch along both side edges (using the 1.5cm seam allowance), then trim any excess fabric and snip across the triangular point, taking care not to catch your stitches. Turn right sides out, using a knitting needle to fully turn out the point. Press, then repeat for the other pieces.

1. Take your stitched and pressed design and trim the fabric to create a 5mm border all around for turning under.
2. Fold each edge under, folding the corners on the diagonal to create a sharp line. Press in place with an iron and secure with a line of stitching all around.
3. For the pillow, cut two squares of coordinating fabric using your trimmed design for size. Add 2cm extra all around, plus an additional 1.5cm seam allowance.
4. Place the fabric right sides together and pin in place. Loop the ribbon and insert it between the fabric at the centre top, so that the loop is pointing inwards and the ends protrude out into the seam allowance. Sew around all four edges, leaving a 5cm gap for turning through in the bottom edge. Carefully snip across the corners, then turn right side out using a knitting needle to fully push out the corners.
5. Stuff lightly using scented polyester toy filling or dried lavender, then slip stitch the gap closed.
6. Position your finished design centrally on the pillow and attach with slip stitch or fabric glue.

1. Cut out your stitched and pressed design, leaving a 1.5cm border all around, plus an additional 1.5cm seam allowance. Then cut a piece of backing fabric to the same size.
2. Place your design and backing fabric right sides together and pin in place. If you are adding pom-pom trim, sandwich the trim between the two layers of fabric with the pom-poms facing inwards, making sure they are not caught in the seam allowance. Stitch all the pieces together, leaving a 5cm gap for turning through in one edge.
3. Snip across the corners or make small snips around any curves, then turn right side out, using a knitting needle to fully push out the corners if your cushion has them. Stuff fully using polyester toy filling, then slip stitch the opening closed.

1. Cut out your design, allowing an additional 5mm all around for turning under. Carefully fold the edges under and press in place. Cut a piece of coordinating fabric or paper to the same size - this will act as backing once your design is mounted in your key ring.
2. Remove the plastic backing from your key ring and position your design in place. Affix your backing of choice to the reverse of your design using double-sided tape, then replace the plastic cover.

1. Cut out your finished and pressed design in a rectangular shape, leaving a 1cm border all around your stitching, plus an additional 1.5cm seam allowance on all sides. Then cut a piece of coordinating backing fabric to the same size.
2. Using a pin, mark the halfway point along the top edge of the piece of fabric with your design on. Place your design right side up, then place your zip, right side down, on top of your design, aligning the top edge of your fabric with the top edge of your zip. When positioning your zip, take care to position it centrally. To find the centre point of your zip, fold the zip in half, holding the metal stoppers at each end of the zip together. Match the fold of the zip to the centre point you previously marked on your fabric.
3. Use a line of stitching to fasten the zip to the fabric, approximately 1cm away from the teeth of the zip. Then repeat the process with your backing fabric and the other side of the zip.
4. With right sides facing each other, stitch your design and backing fabric together, starting at the top right corner and working down the right edge, along the bottom edge and up the left edge. Remember to open the zip halfway before stitching to allow for turning through.
5. Carefully snip across each corner, then turn right sides out, using a knitting needle to gently push out the corners.

1. Trim your finished and pressed design into a rectangle, allowing a 1cm border along the top, bottom and right edges and a 2cm border on the left short edge, plus an additional 1.5cm seam allowance all around. Then cut a piece of backing fabric to the same size.
2. Pin your design and backing fabric together, right sides facing. Form your length of elastic into a loop, then insert it, centrally, between the two layers of fabric on the left side of the design as you are looking at it (the right side when right sides are turned out). The loop should face in and be sandwiched between the fabric, with the ends of the elastic protruding in the seam allowance.
3. Stitch the pieces together leaving a 5cm gap in the bottom edge for turning through. Carefully snip across the corners with a pair of scissors, then turn right sides out using a knitting needle to fully push out the corners.
4. Attach the button halfway down and 1cm in from the edge on the left side of your design, then close the gap in the bottom edge using slip stitch. Pass the elastic loop over the button to fasten the cover around your cafetiere.

1. Cut out your finished and pressed design leaving a 2cm border around the side and bottom edges and 5cm on the top edge, plus an additional 2cm turning under allowance for the side and bottom edges and 3cm on the top edge.
2. Turn under the side and bottom edges by 2cm, press and then stitch in place.
3. Turn the top edge under by 3cm, press and fix in place using a line of stitching 5mm in from what was previously the top edge of the fabric. This will create a channel to thread your cord through.
4. Securely attach the cord to a safety pin, then use the safety pin to thread the cord through the channel at the top of your banner. Cut the cord to the required length, then tie the two ends together in a secure double knot. You can make a feature of the knot, or feed the cord back through the channel so that the knot is hidden inside.
5. To work out the correct amount of pom-pom/ric rac trim needed (if using), measure the width of your banner and then add 4cm. Cut the trim to length. Position the trim on your banner and pin in place, allowing a 2cm excess of trim on either side. Fold this excess to the back of your banner, then stitch the trim in place using small running stitches, starting on the back, then working along the front until you reach the other end.

1. Cut out your finished and pressed design into a 41cm (w) x 45cm (h) rectangle - this will be the front of the bag. Cut a second piece of fabric to the same size - either in the same material or a coordinating fabric - to make the back of the bag. If you have stitched your design onto a smaller piece of fabric, cut it out with a 2cm border all around, turn under the edges by 1cm and stitch it to one of your bag pieces, ensuring the design is centrally positioned.
2. Hem the long side edges of both pieces of fabric by turning each edge under by 1cm, then press and stitch in place.
3. To make the cord housing (for the drawstring), take the front of your bag and fold back 5mm along the top edge to the wrong side of the fabric, then press in place. Next, fold the top edge back again to the wrong side by another 2.5cm and press in place. Stitch along the bottom of the fold, 5mm in from the bottom folded edge. Repeat this for the back of the bag.
4. Place the front and back pieces together, right sides facing each other, then pin in place along the sides and bottom to secure, but leave the ends of the cord housing open.
5. Attach one length of cord to a safety pin, then feed it through the cord housing starting at the front left of the bag. Thread it all the way through the front channel and then through the back channel, so that it comes out at the back left of the bag. Repeat this process with the other length of cord, this time working from the front right and finishing at the back right.
6. Take the two ends of the left piece of cord, make sure that they are even, and put them inside the bag. Pass the ends out through the pinned edges at the lower left of the bag, about 5cm up from the bottom corner, and pin them in place. Repeat for the right side.
7. Attach the front and back pieces by sewing along the sides and bottom edges of the bag, using a 1.5cm seam allowance, then turn right side out.

1. Cut out each finished pattern piece leaving a one stitch border all around.
2. Cut the necessary number of pieces of nylon cord or string, using the project picture for reference. Cut the length of the strings according to the height you wish the mobile to hang.
3. Attach the cord, centrally, to the back of each piece and secure with sticky tape.
4. Back each piece of the mobile with coloured card or paper cut to size. Attach using paper glue or double-sided tape.

1. Cut out your finished design so that it measures 8cm x 11cm, with an additional 1cm seam allowance all around. Then cut a piece of backing fabric to the same size.
2. Press one long edge of each piece to the wrong side by 1cm. Carefully top stitch in place to create a neat edge.
3. Pin the design and the backing fabric together, right sides facing, ensuring that your top-stitched seams are both on the same side.
4. Cut a length of nylon cord to 8cm in length. Make a loop with the cord and insert it halfway along the top short edge of your pinned fabric so that the loop is sandwiched between the fabric and the ends stick out in the seam allowance.
5. Using a 1cm seam allowance, stitch the pieces together along the two short sides and one long side. The side with the top-stitched seams should remain unstitched as they form the opening of the case.
6. Carefully snip across the corners of the case, turn right side out and press. Cut a piece of self-adhesive Velcro to length so that it comfortably sits inside one of the long open edges. Once happy with the fit, attach the hook part of the Velcro inside one long edge and the loop part on the facing inside edge, so that they can be pressed together.
7. To finish, attach a lobster clasp keyring to the loop of cord.

1. Cut out each design around the sides and top edges leaving a one stitch border all around. On the lower edge, make a ‘stalk’ by cutting a rectangle that measures six stitches wide by 15 stitches high.

1. Cut your finished design to size to match the width of your towel, leaving a 1cm border around your stitching, plus add an additional 1.5cm seam allowance all around.
2. Press back the seam allowance to the reverse of the design and stitch in place to neaten the edges.
3. Position the trim as desired on your towel and attach using slip stitch or fusible iron-on web.

1. Press your finished design. Place a piece of paper over the top of the design and trace the outline of the door hanger. Tip - you can use tracing paper to do this, or hold your stitching and paper up against the window so that the light shines through and illuminates the outline.
2. Cut out your traced doorhanger shape, then trace around it onto a piece of light-weight cardboard. Cut out your cardboard doorhanger.
3. On the reverse of your finished design, draw a pencil border of 1.5cm all around the outline of your stitching. You may find you have to leave less border in the curve of the hanger, but leave as much as you possibly can. Cut out your design along the border line.
4. Using double-sided sticky tape, fix your finished piece to the cardboard template so the edges of your stitching and the template line up and the border protrudes over the edges of the template.
5. Very carefully snip tiny notches into the border around any curved part of the design, but take care not to snip too close to your stitching. Fold the border back around the cardboard template, smoothing out any rough edges, then fix in place with paper glue or sticky tape.
6. To make the backing, place your original paper template on your backing material and trace around it. Make sure to place the template the correct way up so that your backing is facing in the correct direction. Cut out your backing material and attach to the reverse of the doorhanger using double-sided tape or glue.

1. Press your fabric, then cut two 46cm x 41cm rectangles from it.
2. Pin your two pieces of fabric right sides facing, then stitch together along the two long side edges and the shorter bottom edge.
3. To create the hem around the top of the bag, turn your fabric right sides out, then turn the top edge back by 1.5cm and press in place. Then turn the top edge back by a further 2.5cm and press. To secure, top stitch all around the top of the bag, 5mm in from the top edge.
4. To make the straps, fold your twill tape in half, then cut it so that you end up with two pieces each measuring 69cm in length. To neaten the ends, fold each end over by 1cm and secure with a line of stitching.
5. To position your straps on the bag, measure 5cm in from the side edge of the bag and 4cm down from the top edge, then pin the bottom edge of your strap in place. Repeat for the other side, making sure the tape is flat and not twisted. Once happy with the positioning, fasten each end to the bag by sewing a rectangle of stitches. Start by going across the tape at the bottom edge, then up one side until level with the top edge of the bag, then across and down the other side. Fasten the other end of the strap in the same way, then turn your bag over and repeat for the other side. NB Take care not to stitch through both sides of the bag when attaching the straps!

1. On the reverse of your finished design, use a pencil to mark a 1cm border all around your stitching to create an upside down fan shape. Trace over this shape and transfer onto medium-weight card. Cut out your card shape.
2. Cut out your design following the pencil guide made in Step 1, allowing an additional 1.5cm all around (this will be for turning under).
3. Fix the design to the card using double-sided sticky tape. There should be a small excess of fabric all around. Make tiny snips along the curved edge of the fabric to help with turning under, then turn the fabric to the back of the card and fix in place with paper glue or double-sided sticky tape.
4. Gently roll the design into a cone shape, lining up the straight edges at the back. Fix the cone in place by positioning several pieces of strong sticky tape across the inside adjoining edges to hold them together.
5. To secure the construction of the cone, use ladder stitch to lace the two outside edges together. Start at the bottom of the cone and work up, pulling tightly as you go and tying off tightly at the top point.

1. Take your finished design for one side and on the back of the fabric mark out a rectangle shape around your stitching. Cut out the rectangle, leaving an additional 1.5cm seam allowance on each edge. Repeat for each side.
2. Cut four pieces of medium-weight card (one for each side of the box), each measuring the same size as your stitched design. Attach a piece of card to the reverse of each design using double-sided tape. Press the excess fabric border back to the reverse of the card and secure with double-sided tape. Ensure the design is positioned centrally and that the edges are straight, smooth and taut (but don’t overstretch).
3. Decide how you would like the pattern to run around the box, then take your first two sides and ladder stitch them together down one long edge. Add the third and fourth sides in the same way, then finally connect the fourth and first sides.
4. Cut a piece of card to fit the bottom of the box. You could use coloured card, or cover it in fabric or felt. Place it in position and attach using either fabric glue or small stitches in matching sewing thread.
5. To make the lid, trace around the base of your box onto a piece of medium-weight coloured card. Add tabs on each side of the square as shown in the illustration. Cut out the finished shape, then lightly score along the black lines and gently fold your cardboard back to create the sides of the lid. Fix the tabs in place using strong craft glue.

1. Decide what shape your design is going on - for example, a circle, square or rectangle. Using a pencil, lightly draw the shape onto the reverse of the fabric, leaving at least a 1cm border around your stitching. Trace this shape onto paper, then transfer onto card and cut out.
2. Cut out your stitched design, following the border line but allowing an additional 1.5cm for turning under.
3. Attach the card to the reverse of your design using double-sided sticky tape. For accurate placement, align the card shape with the pencil outline on your fabric. Check the placement and if happy, turn back the excess fabric border to the reverse of the card to create a neat edge. Fix in place using paper glue, sticky tape or double-sided tape.
4. Attach your cut-out motif to the required item - stationery, pen pots, magnets etc using glue or double-sided sticky tape.

1. Trim your finished and pressed design into a rectangle, allowing a 1cm border along the top, bottom and right edges and a 2cm border on the left short edge, plus an additional 1.5cm seam allowance all around. Then cut a piece of backing fabric to the same size.
2. Pin your design and backing fabric together, right sides facing. Form your length of elastic into a small loop, then insert it, centrally, between the two layers of fabric on the left side of the design as you are looking at it (the right side when right sides are turned out) and pin in place. The loop should face in and be sandwiched between the fabric, with the ends of the elastic protruding in the seam allowance.
3. Stitch the pieces together leaving a 5cm gap in the bottom edge for turning through. Carefully snip across the corners with a pair of scissors, then turn right sides out using a knitting needle to fully push out the corners.
4. Attach the button halfway down and 1cm in from the edge on the left side of your design, then close the gap in the bottom edge using slip stitch. Pass the elastic loop over the button to fasten the cover around your mug.

1. Press your finished design, turn it over to the reverse and use a pencil to lightly mark out a rectangular border of 2-3cm around your stitching. Cut out your rectangle, allowing an additional 1.5cm seam allowance on top of the border you have marked. Cut a piece of backing fabric to the same size.
2. To work out the length of ribbon you need for each loop, drape the ribbon over the dowel so that it makes a ‘tunnel’ the rod can easily pass through. Add 3cm to this length and then cut the ribbon. Fold the piece of ribbon in half, right sides out, and stitch across the short ‘open’ edge to secure the ends and close the loop. Repeat to make as many loops as required. Tip - The length of the ribbon pieces /size of the loops will depend upon the thickness of your piece of dowel.
3. Place your finished piece of stitching on top of the backing fabric - right sides together - and pin in place. Insert your ribbon loops across the top edge at evenly spaced intervals. The loops should be facing inwards, so they are sandwiched between the design and the backing fabric, with the stitched ends poking out into the seam allowance. Tip - Line up the outer edge of the two outer loops with the top corners of the rectangle you marked in Step 1 - this will ensure your loops line up with the edges of the banner.
4. Follow your pencil lines and stitch around all four edges of the banner using a 1.5cm seam allowance and leaving a gap in the lower edge for turning through. Take care not to catch you loops in the seam as you sew the sides together. Once finished, carefully snip across each corner, then turn right side out. Use a blunt pencil or knitting needle to fully push out the corners. Press, then close the gap on the lower edge using slip stitch.
5. Thread the dowel through the ribbon loops, then knot the braided cord around each end and hang.

1. Take your finished piece of stitching and frame it as in the usual way to frame a picture. Remove the glass from the frame to ensure easy access to the clock.
2. Attach glue dots to the reverse of your clock – or a double-sided foam craft pad cut to size – then stick to the stitched piece in the required position and press in place until fixed.

1. Take your finished piece of stitching and attach it to the card in the usual way of backing cut-out motifs.
2. Attach the self-adhesive magnet in a central position to the reverse of your motif. Tip – if you have a large or more complex shape design, you may want to use multiple magnets to ensure a stronger grip.

1. Measure the diameter of your finished design, add 6cm to this measurement and draw two circles in the corresponding size onto your fabric. Add an additional 1.5 cm seam allowance around each circle, then cut out. If you want to use the bag for heavier items, you can also attach some interfacing to the reverse of each piece at this point to add extra strength.
   
   Note - If you have stitched your design directly onto fabric or felt, cut out the circle as above around your design – ensuring that it’s centrally positioned – then cut out a second circle to match. If you have stitched your design on a separate piece of fabric and wish to mount it on the bag, do so now by attaching it to the front piece of the bag.
2. Place the front and back panels right sides together and pin in place.
3. Measure halfway down the bag from the centre top point, then draw a horizontal line across the bag from side to side. Cut your cord to the required length (note that the strap will be fixed and not adjustable), then place the cord inside the bag and feed the raw ends out through the seam allowance on each side, in line with the halfway line. Allow the raw ends to protrude by 3cm on each side.
4. To mark the bag opening, measure halfway down between the centre top of the bag and the horizontal centre line you made in Step 3, then draw another horizontal line across the bag. Starting at the right end of this line and using the 1.5cm seam allowance, stitch the front and back pieces together, following the curve of the circle down, around the bottom and up the other side, then come to a finish at the left end of the line. Take care to stitch through your cord as well – you may want to double back over the stitching at these points to strengthen the seam.
5. Carefully make notches around the stitched curves. For the bag opening, turn the unstitched curved top edge of the front panel down to the wrong side by 1.5cm and press in place, then repeat for the back panel. Turn the bag right sides out and press.
6. Secure the hem of the bag opening by using a line of neat top stitch around the curve. Work the top stitch on the front panel first, then the back panel, taking care not to stitch them together. To finish, add a press-stud fastening inside the centre top of the bag.

1. Print and cut out the provided template at 100% and place it on the reverse of your finished stitching, making sure that the design is centralised. Using a pencil, trace around the template onto the reverse of the fabric, then cut it out, allowing an additional 1.5cm seam allowance all around.
2. Repeat the above process three more times on your backing/lining fabric to create one backing piece and two lining pieces.
3. Use the template to cut two dome shapes from the wadding. You won’t need to add a seam allowance for these – instead, trim each wadding piece by approximately 12mm on each side and around the curve. This is to make it smaller so that it sits comfortably inside the lining.
4. Turn up (to the wrong side) a 1.5cm hem along the long straight edge of each of the four fabric pieces. Press in place using an iron.
5. Place the two outer pieces of the tea cosy together – right sides facing – and pin in place. Take your length of ribbon, fold it in half and position it centrally at the top of the dome. Insert it between the two layers so that the loop faces in and the ends protrude into the seam allowance, then pin in place. Using your original pencil line as a guide, stitch the outer pieces together using the 1.5cm seam allowance. Take care to leave the long bottom edge open. Then stitch the lining pieces together in the same way.
6. Carefully snip notches around the curves of the domes. Turn the outer cosy right side out, but leave the lining wrong sides out.
7. Place the lining inside the outer cosy, matching up your side seams – wiggle it into place to ensure a good fit. Then take a piece of your wadding and insert it between the lining and the outer cosy. Repeat for the other side and manipulate into place to get a good fit.
8. To finish, match the bottom folded edge of the lining to the bottom folded edge of the outer cosy, then pin and stitch together.

1. The pouch is made from one piece of fabric. Decide on the shape and size you would like the pouch to be – a good indicator is to measure the size of the finished design, then add 3 to 5cm around the sides and lower edge and 6-8cm to the top edge. Double your width measurement, then mark the entire size on your stitching fabric and add an additional 1.5cm seam allowance all around. Once you’re happy with the size, cut out your fabric.
2. To make the pouch the fabric is folded in half, so position your stitching centrally on the right side of your marked out area. Once you’re happy with the position, stitch the design as usual. Tip – when positioning your design, remember to ignore the seam allowance.
3. Take your finished piece, then on the reverse, measure 3cm down from the top edge on each side and cut a horizontal notch into the seam allowance. Fold the seam allowance in, then press and stitch in place.
4. Next fold the top edge down to the same level as your notches, then stitch in place, 5mm from the folded down top edge. This creates the channel for your cord to pass through. Attach your cord to a very small safety pin and thread it through the channel, making sure there is plenty left dangling at either end.
5. Turn your fabric right side up, then fold double, bringing the left side across to the right so that the right sides are facing each other. Stitch the bag together, starting below the notch of the channel, down the side and across the bottom. Very carefully snip across the two bottom corners.
6. Turn your bag right sides out through the top opening, gather your cord and cut to length as required.

1. On the reverse of your stitched piece, mark out a 1cm border around each design, plus an additional 1.5cm seam allowance. Cut out your designs so that you have six pieces. Tip – the cube has precise corners that need to fit together, so make sure all your sides are exactly the same size before you start stitching.
2. Decide how you would like your finished designs to sit together, then lay them out in the following way:
   
3. Following the numerical sequence, begin stitching your designs together. To start, pin sides 1 and 2 together (right sides facing), taking care to ensure the edges are fully aligned. Stitch the pieces together along the one edge as shown, using a 1.5 seam allowance. Then repeat until you have attached all six sides and your piece looks like the diagram.
4. The next part is trickier as it involves making the cube 3D, but it follows the same process as in Step 3. Continue sewing the edges together to form the cube – you will need to attach one edge of piece 2 to piece 6 and one edge to piece 5, then attach one edge of piece 4 to piece 5 and one edge to piece 6. Finally, attach one edge of piece 1 to piece 6 and another edge to piece 5. Leave the final edge of piece 1 open for now.
5. Very carefully snip across the corners, then turn the cube right side out through the one remaining open seam. Push out the corners.
6. Fill the cube with stuffing as required, then close the open seam with slip stitch.

1. Take your finished piece of stitching and on the reverse lightly draw a heart shape around the design, leaving a 1cm border all around the stitching. Cut out the heart, allowing an additional 1.5cm seam allowance all around. Then cut out a heart from the backing fabric to match.
2. Pin the two pieces right sides together.
3. To make the hanging loop, cut a length of ribbon approximately 12cm in length, then fold it in half and insert it between the aida and the backing fabric at the top middle point of the heart. The loop should be facing inwards so it is sandwiched between the two layers of fabric, with the ends protruding into the seam allowance. Pin in place.
4. Stitch the pieces together, leaving a 3cm gap for turning through on one of the lower edges of the heart. Carefully snip across the bottom point of the heart, make small notches around the top curves, then turn right sides out.
5. Stuff the heart with a filling of your choice – dried lavender works well or add a few drops of essential oil to some polyester stuffing – then use slip stitch to close the open seam.

1. Take one of the card rectangles and attach it centrally to the reverse of your finished stitched design using double-sided tape. Then use a pencil and ruler to lightly draw a 5mm border around the card and cut out your fabric, adding an additional 1cm seam allowance all around as you go.
2. Along each edge, fold back the seam allowance to the wrong side and press in place, ensuring you have neat points on each corner. Along the top edge, use a line of top stitch to secure the top hem.
3. Repeat Steps 1 and 2 to make the back panel of the holder, this time using your backing fabric in place of your stitched design.
4. Place the front panel on top of the back panel, wrong sides together, so that your stitched design is facing up. Carefully align the edges and pin the two panels together.
5. Starting at the top right corner of the holder, top stitch the front and back pieces together by working down the right side, then along the bottom edge and up the left side.

1. Stitch your design on the right hand side of the aida so that you can fold it in half once finished – the un-stitched left side will create the back of the cover.
2. Trim the aida to 23cm (w) x 15cm (h), plus an additional 1cm seam allowance all around. Cut a piece of lining fabric to the same size, then cut two smaller rectangles each measuring 6.5cm x 17cm which will make up the inner flaps.
3. Take one small rectangle and fold back one long edge by 5mm to the wrong side. Top stitch in place to create a neat hem. Repeat for the other rectangle.
4. Lay the lining fabric right side up, then pin one flap at either end of the fabric – also with right sides facing up. The hemmed/top stitched edge should be facing inwards. Place your cross stitched aida on top, right side facing down, and pin the layers together.
5. Using a 1cm seam allowance, stitch along each of the four edges, leaving a small gap for turning through. Carefully mitre the corners, then turn your stitching right sides out, taking care to fully push out the corners. Close the remaining gap with slip stitch.

1. Lay your tablet on a piece of felt and mark out a rectangle around it, leaving an additional 5cm all around. Cut out and use to make a second rectangle, but this time add an additional 8cm to the top edge – this will form the fold-over flap of the case. Cut a piece of lining fabric to the same size as your second rectangle.
2. Place your second rectangle and lining fabric right sides together, pin in place then sew together along each edge, leaving a small gap for turning through. Mitre the corners, turn right sides out and fully push out the corners.
3. Take your first felt rectangle and turn the top edge back to the wrong side by 1cm. Top stitch in place to create a neat edge. Attach your finished stitched piece as desired on the right side of the felt to make the front of the case. Remember to allow a little room between the design and the top edge to attach your fastening.
4. Place your front piece on top of the lined back rectangle, with the front right side down and the lining facing down as well. Line up the bottom corners, pin together, then stitch in place along the three edges of the front piece using a 1cm seam allowance. Mitre the corners then turn right sides out.
5. Mark the centre point along the top edge of the front piece and attach a small piece of self-adhesive Velcro to make the fastening – with the corresponding piece positioned in the same place on the flap lining so that the two meet when the flap is folded down.

1. Trim your finished design so the aida measures 17cm (w) x 23cm (h) (check these dimensions will house your E-reader and increase slightly if necessary), then cut a piece of backing fabric and two pieces of lining fabric to the same size.
2. Cut two rectangles from the wadding, the same size as your fabric pieces. Trim each wadding piece by approximately 12mm on each side to make it smaller so that it sits comfortably inside the lining.
3. Turn back (to the wrong side) a 1cm hem along one short edge of each of the four fabric pieces. Press in place using an iron. These will create the top opening of the case and lining.
4. Place the two outer pieces of the case together – right sides facing and with the folded back hems at the top – and pin in place. Stitch together along three sides using a 1cm seam allowance. Take care to leave the top edge open. Then stitch the lining pieces together in the same way.
5. Mitre the corners of the outer case and lining. Turn the outer case right side out and fully push out the corners, but leave the lining wrong sides out.
6. Place the lining inside the outer case and match up the side seams. Take one piece of wadding and insert it between the lining and the outer case, then repeat for the other side.
7. To finish, match the top folded edge of the lining to the top folded edge of the outer case, then pin and stitch together.

1. Trace around the template onto the back of your finished piece of stitching, ensuring the design is centred. Cut out, leaving an additional 1cm seam allowance all around. Then cut a piece of backing fabric to the same size.
2. Use the template to cut out a piece of wadding (do not add seam allowance). Then trim the wadding by 5mm all around so it will fit comfortably inside the mask.
3. Lay the front of the mask on top of the backing fabric, right sides together, then place these on top of the wadding and pin all three layers together.
4. Measure halfway down at each end of the mask and insert your piece of elastic at these points. Place the elastic between the front and back pieces of fabric, so that it’s contained inside the mask with just the ends poking out through the seam allowance at the halfway points.
5. Sew all around the mask using a 1cm seam allowance and leaving a small gap for turning through. Stitch across the elastic several times to fasten in place, but take care not to catch the main bulk of the elastic as you sew the layers together.
6. Cut small notches all around the curved edges of the mask, then carefully turn right sides out – the wadding should now be inside the mask.

1. Cut out the finished design leaving a 1cm border all around the stitching, plus an additional 1cm seam allowance. Cut a piece of lining fabric to the same size.
2. Place your stitching and lining fabric right sides together, pin in place and stitch together along all four sides using the 1cm seam allowance, leaving a small gap for turning through.
3. Mitre the corners, turn right sides out and fully push out the corners, then close the gap using slip stitch.
4. Fold your stitching horizontally in half so that you have one pattern on the front and one on the back. Your stitched designs should be right sides out with the lining fabric enclosed inside. Line up all edges to create an even rectangle and pin in place.
5. Measure 5mm in from the outside edge and secure the case by top stitching along one short edge and the one long open edge. Leave the remaining short edge un-stitched to create the case opening.

1. Draw a circle 25cm in diameter onto a piece of paper and cut out. Trace the circle onto the reverse of your finished stitched piece, ensuring the design is centred. Add an additional 1cm seam allowance all around the circle, then cut out.
2. Using a needle and thread, tack all around the seam allowance with loose, long running stitches. Make sure you leave plenty of thread at each end for gathering up.
3. Gently pull on the thread to loosely gather the circle into a cushion shape, then fill with stuffing. Continue to gather the cushion more tightly and fill with more stuffing until it is completely packed and firm and as round as possible.
4. Firmly tie off the thread ends and stitch them back into the bottom of the cushion, continuing to make the shape as round as possible. You can glue or stitch a smaller circle of fabric to the bottom of the cushion to cover your stitching if you would like.
5. Sit your cushion on top of the embroidery hoop and attach using fabric glue, double-sided tape or small stitches.

1. Stitch the design centrally on the right half of the aida, the empty left side will make the back of the case.
2. Cut a piece of lining fabric to the same size as the aida. Place your finished piece and the lining fabric right sides together and pin in place. Stitch together using a 1cm seam allowance and leaving a small gap in one edge for turning through.
3. Mitre the corners and turn right sides out. Use a chopstick or blunt pencil to fully push out the corners, then close the gap using slip stitch. Fold the case in half and press down the spine to create a centre crease.
4. Cut two rectangles of felt in a coordinating colour, each measuring 14cm x 10cm. Lay the rectangles on top of each other, fold in half vertically and very lightly press. Unfold the rectangles and align their centre fold with the centre fold on the case, approximately 1.5cm down from the top edge.
5. Place the tassel between the bottom felt rectangle and the lining fabric. Top stitch down the centre fold of the case and through the felt rectangles and tassel as well, so that the rectangles create a ‘book’ inside the case.

1. Trim your finished design leaving a 1cm border all around your stitching.
2. Mark a window the same size as your finished design on one of the labels. Cut it out carefully using a scalpel or craft knife.
3. Attach the back of the stitching to the front of the uncut label with glue or double-sided tape.
4. Apply glue or double-sided tape to the back of the cut label, around the cut-out window, and stick it on top of the stitched piece.

1. Take your finished stitched piece and follow the instructions for how to make a pocket.
2. Measure your sewing machine to work out how long you need the cover to be. Measure from the bottom back to the bottom front and also the width from end to end. Add 5cm to each of these measurements, then mark out two rectangles on your fabric to the correct size and cut out. One rectangle is the outer cover and the other is the lining.
3. Take the outer cover and fold it in half horizontally (right sides out). Centrally position your pocket on one side of the cover, then pin and stitch in place. Open up your cover so you have the full rectangle again. The right side (with the pocket) should be facing up.
4. To make the ties, cut four lengths of ribbon, each 25-30cm in length. Measure 12cm up from the bottom corner of the cover and pin your first piece of ribbon to the fabric. The main length of the ribbon should be laying on your fabric with 2cm sticking out over the edge. Repeat this for the other three corners.
5. Lay your second rectangle of fabric (the lining) right side down on top of the cover and ribbons and pin in place. Using a 1cm seam allowance, sew around all four edges, leaving a small gap in one edge for turning through. Mitre the corners, turn right sides out and fully push out the corners using a chopstick or blunt pencil. Close the gap using slip stitch.

1. Stitch your design on the aida as shown.
2. Make a paper template for your peg bag. To do this, measure the width of your coat hanger and add an additional 6cm; this measurement is the width of your paper and the length needs to be 50cm. Tip - you may need to tape multiple smaller pieces together to make a large enough piece of paper. Next, mark a horizontal line the full width of your paper, 20cm down from the top edge. Then mark a second horizontal line 28cm up from the bottom edge. These represent the lower front and upper front edges of your peg bag respectively. Finally, place the coat hanger on the paper so that the base of the hook is aligned with the top edge of the paper. Trace around the shoulders of the hanger, then out by an extra 2.5cm before drawing a straight line down to the bottom edge of the paper. Once you’re happy with the shape, cut the template out.
3. Place the template onto the wrong side of your coordinating fabric and trace around it in full to make the back piece of your peg bag. Mark out a second piece (the front top piece) using the guideline you marked previously. Finally, place the template on the back of your aida and mark out the bottom front piece in the same way. Cut out all your pieces.
4. Fold under by 1cm along the lower edge of the top piece and the upper edge of the bottom piece and press. Then, right sides together, place the top front piece on top of the bottom front piece (your stitched design), so that the folded lower edge of the top piece and folded upper edge of the bottom piece line up. Pin in place. Using a 1cm seam allowance, stitch in 8cm from each side. These stitched seams form either side of the peg bag’s opening.
5. Press your seams open. Turn your joined pieces right side up and neatly top stitch all the way along both pressed edges to secure the hems. This makes up your front piece.
6. Right sides together, lay your front piece on top of your back piece of fabric and pin in place. Using a 1cm seam allowance, stitch around both sides and the top, but leave a 1cm opening in the top (this is for your coat hanger hook to protrude through). Make sure to leave the lower edge of your bag open as well.
7. Carefully snip into the curves, then turn right sides out and press. Place the bag over your coat hanger so that the hook pokes through the gap in the top and the shoulders fit snugly.
8. Finally, press under the front and back bottom edges by 1cm and neatly top stitch together to close the bag.

1. Stitch your design on the plastic canvas as shown.
2. Carefully cut out each character as shown in the project photograph. On the outer edge, follow the character outline leaving a space of two squares between your stitching and cut line. On the lower edge and side edge that will go against the books, leave a 3cm border between your stitching and cut line and make your cut line straight.
3. On the straight side edge, leave a two square border from your stitching, then fold the rest of the canvas under to create a straight edge. It can be a bit stiff, so crease it well to ensure it stays folded back. Repeat for the lower edge. Using your scissors, make a small diagonal snip into the fold where the bottom and side edges meet to help create a sharp fold and corner point.
4. Apply double-sided sticky tape/glue along both folded back edges. Line up the edges of your design and bookend, then press your design in place against the bookend. You may want to use a heavy book to keep the edges in place until they have fully bonded. Repeat for the other bookend and design.

1. Measure the width of your slippers.
2. Iron your finished piece. On the reverse of your aida, mark out a rectangle around the design. The width should measure the same as the width of your slipper. The height should be the same as the design, plus 0.5cm on the top and 0.5cm on the bottom. Then add an additional 1.5cm all around for turning under.
3. Cut out your design, then fold under your 1.5cm seam allowance all around. Press and top stitch in place to ensure neat edges.
4. Position your design on your slipper, then pin in place. Attach securely using slip stitch along each edge. Then repeat for the other slipper.

1. Press your finished, stitched piece. On the reverse of your aida, mark out a square, leaving a 1cm border around each side of the stitching, plus an additional 1.5cm seam allowance all around. Then cut out.
2. Cut a piece of backing fabric to the same size.
3. Take your stitched piece and fold the top edge back (to the wrong side) by 0.5cm and press in place. Then fold under again by a further 1cm so that the raw edge is enclosed in the fold. Press, then top stitch the hem neatly in place. Repeat the process with your backing fabric.
4. Place your two pieces right sides together and pin in place. Stitch together along the two side edges and bottom edge, making sure to leave the top edge open. Carefully snip across each corner, then turn your wallet right side out and fully poke out the corners using a chopstick or pencil.
5. Apply the self-adhesive hook and loop tape along the full length of the inside top edges of the wallet.

1. Remove the backing board and glass from your picture frame.
2. Lay the frame face down, then measure from one side of the frame to the other (note – make sure to measure from side to side of the frame, not just across the aperture). Cut a piece of your ribbon to the same length.
3. Using a hot glue gun or staple gun, securely fix one end of the ribbon to the back of the frame. Stretch the ribbon across the frame aperture to the opposite side. Keeping the ribbon taut, fix the other end in place in the same way. Repeat for as many rows as you wish to add to your frame.
4. Safely discard the frame glass, then replace the backing board. Tip – You can cover the backing board with paper or fabric to create an interesting or seasonal background for the frame.
5. Stand your memo frame up, then attach your memos and stitched designs using mini wooden pegs or decorative bulldog clips.

1. Take your finished stitched piece, press it and lay it face down on a surface. On the reverse of the design, mark out a border 1.5cm away from the edge of the stitched design all the way around. You can make this a straight-forward shape like a square or rectangle, or you can follow the shape of the design to create a more ‘cut-out’ effect. Add an additional 1cm seam allowance all around, then cut out. Cut out a piece of backing fabric to the same size and shape.
2. Place your stitched design and backing fabric right sides together, then pin and stitch in place (using the 1cm seam allowance). Leave a small gap in the lower edge for turning through and filling.
3. Snip across any square corners or clip around any curved edges, then turn your bag right sides out, using a blunt pencil to fully poke out all of the corners.
4. Place a funnel into the opening of your bag and slowly pour in the dried lentils/split peas. Do this gradually, knocking them into place as you go so they settle properly. Stop filling once you reach a level about 1cm below the opening.
5. Tightly slip stitch the opening closed, making sure to close up any small gaps and tying off securely.

1. Measure the circumference of your plant pot. Trim your aida band to a length 10cm less than the circumference, but allowing an additional 2.5cm on each end for neatening/turning under.
2. Stitch your design onto your aida band, repeating as required to fit the correct length..
3. At each end of the aida band, turn the raw edge back by 1.5cm, press, then stitch in place. On the reverse of the fabric, at each end mark the halfway point between the top and bottom edges.
4. Cut your ribbon into two equal-length pieces. Pin once piece in place at one end of the band, lining it up with the mark you made in the previous step, then securely stitch it in place. Repeat for the other end using the other piece of ribbon.
5. Attach your trim around your plant pot, tying securely in place with the ribbons. Trim off any excess lengths of ribbon if required.

1. Mount your finished stitched design in the embroidery hoop (see instructions on how to mount a design in an embroidery hoop).
2. Locate the centre of the stitched design. Take the battery operated clock movement and gently push the spindle through the centre of the design from the back of the hoop. There’s no need to make a hole in your stitching as the spindle should pass through one of the holes in the aida. You may need to use sticky tape to secure the clock movement to the back of your hoop/stitching.
3. Add the clock hands to the top of the spindle, then set your clock to the correct time.

1. Fold your piece of velvet in half (right sides together). Print out the attached template at 100%, cut it out and place the straight edge along the folded edge of your velvet and pin in place, then cut out, taking care to mark or notch the start/finish point in the seam allowance where shown. Cut out one more velvet piece in the same way, then two pieces from your lining fabric.
2. Stitch your design centrally onto one piece of the velvet.
3. Once you have stitched your design, place the two velvet pieces right sides together. Pin and stitch together along the seam allowance, taking care to start and finish at the marked points. Tip - you are only stitching the lower half of the purse together as the upper parts need to remain separate to form the purse opening.
4. Repeat Step 3 using your lining fabric. Next, snip small notches into the seam allowance around the curved edge of both pouches. Turn the velvet pouch right sides out, then place the lining pouch inside, lining up the side seams. Push the lining down into place and align the top raw edges of the lining and the velvet. Press back the seam allowance of both pieces, then pin the lining and velvet top edges together and close using slip stitch. Repeat for the other side.
5. Open your clasp frame and insert one top edge of the purse into the frame. This can be quite fiddly so it can be helpful to pin the purse in place. The corners of the frame should align with the starting/finishing points you previously marked on your fabric - sometimes it’s necessary to ease the fabric around a bit to create an exact fit. Start in the centre at the top and hand sew the purse into the frame using the nylon thread. Pass the needle through the pre-made holes from front to back - making sure to sew through the fabric as you go. Once you have attached one side of the frame, repeat for the other side.

1. On the reverse of your stitched piece, mark out a 1cm border around the design, plus an additional 1.5cm seam allowance. Cut out your design, then use it to make four identical squares from your coordinating fabric and one square from your felt. Tip – the cube has precise corners that need to fit together, so make sure all your sides are exactly the same size before you start stitching.
2. Using an iron, attach the fusible interfacing to each of the squares of fabric and felt. Take extra care and use a very low heat when attaching it to the felt as not all felt is heat-resistant and it can burn or warp.
3. To make the lid of the money box, take your felt square and fold it in half. Mark a point halfway along the folded edge, then, using sharp scissors, make a clean 2cm cut towards the opposite long edge. Unfold the felt and you should be left with a slot.
4. Lay out your six pieces following the diagram below. Piece 1 should be the stitched design and piece 2 the felt lid:
   
5. Following the numerical sequence, begin stitching the pieces together. To start, pin sides 1 and 2 together (right sides facing), taking care to ensure the edges are fully aligned. Stitch the pieces together along the one edge as shown, using a 1.5 seam allowance. Then repeat until you have attached all six sides and your piece looks like the diagram.
6. The next part is trickier as it involves making the cube 3D, but it follows the same process as in Step 3. Continue sewing the edges together to form the cube – but leave one edge at the back of the cube open. This will be for turning through and will also make the opening of the money box.
7. Very carefully snip across the corners, then turn the cube right sides out through the one remaining open seam. Push out the corners.
8. To create the opening for the money box, press back the raw edges of each side of the open seam to create a neat edge - the pressed back seam allowance will create a ‘flap’. Apply self adhesive hook and loop tape along each flap and press together. It can be easily pulled apart to access the contents.

1. Using a pencil, mark out a rectangle on the reverse of your finished stitched piece, leaving a 2cm border from the edge of the stitching all around. Then add on an additional 1.5cm seam allowance all around. Cut out and press back the edges all around.
2. Cut out two 49.5cm x 33.5cm rectangles from your backing fabric - these are for the front and back of your mat. Position your stitched design centrally on the right side of one of the pieces of fabric, pin in place, then top stitch all around to secure. This will be the front of the placemat.
3. Cut a piece of batting into a rectangle approximately 50 x 35cm. Lay it flat, then place the front of your mat on top of it - right side up. Finally, lay the back of your mat on top - right side down. The batting should protrude beyond the front and back pieces as it will be trimmed to size later on. Pin the three pieces together, press, then, using a 1.5cm seam allowance, stitch all the way around leaving a 6cm gap in one edge for turning through.
4. Trim your batting to size by cutting it as close to your stitches as possible. Then carefully snip across each corner of the rectangle and turn right sides out. Fully poke out the corners and close the gap in the seam using slip stitch.

1. Using a pencil, mark out a rectangle on the reverse of your finished stitched piece, leaving a 2cm border from the edge of the stitching all around. Then add on an additional 1.5cm seam allowance all around. Cut out and press back the edges all around.
2. Measure the circumference (distance around the outside) of your embroidery hoop and add an extra 5cm. This is the width your coordinating fabric needs to be. Cut one piece of fabric to your required width and 45cm high.
3. Turn back the top edge (width) of your fabric by 1cm and press in place. Turn back the top edge by a further 5cm to conceal the raw edge, press and stitch in place using a 5mm seam allowance from the bottom folded edge.
4. To create the bag, fold the fabric in half width-ways and stitch along the open side edge and bottom edge using a 1.5cm seam allowance. Snip across the corners and turn right sides out. Position your stitched design as desired, pin in place, then top stitch all around to secure in place.
5. Push the inner hoop of your embroidery hoop inside the top edge of the bag, then fold the top edge down to cover the hoop. Place the outer hoop around the outside top edge of the bag and tighten so that it holds the bag in place.
6. To hang the bag, tie a loop of ribbon around the hoop-tightening mechanism.

1. From the outer fabric cut: one 25cm diameter circle and one 12 x 52cm strip.
2. Press the interfacing to the back of the lining fabric and cut: one 25cm diameter circle and one 20 x 74cm strip.
3. Press your finished design and trim the fabric down to 12 x 22cm, centring the motif.
4. Pin the two side edges of your stitched design to the short ends of the outer fabric strip with right sides together, to make a loop. Machine stitch, using a 1cm allowance, and press the seams open. Turn right side out.
5. Join the short ends of the interfaced lining and sew to the circle in the same way. Press back a 1cm hem around the top.
6. Sit the lining inside the basket with the right sides together. Push the lining down so the two are level and pin the two pressed edges together. Slip stitch all the way around. Adjust the two layers so that the sides are approx 15cm high all round, then fold the top edge back to make a ‘cuff’.

1. Stitch your design on the aida as shown.
2. Make a paper template for your accessory holder. To do this, measure the width of your coat hanger and add an additional 6cm; this measurement is the width of your paper and the length needs to be 40cm. Tip - you may need to tape multiple smaller pieces together to make a large enough piece of paper. Place the coat hanger on the paper so that the base of the hook is aligned with the top edge of the paper. Trace around the shoulders of the hanger, then out by an extra 2.5cm before drawing a straight line down to the bottom edge of the paper. Once you’re happy with the shape, cut the template out.
3. Use the template to cut out the front and back panels for your accessory holder. Cut the front panel from your aida (making sure that your stitched design is centrally positioned) and the back panel from your co-ordinating fabric.
4. Right sides together, lay your front piece on top of your back piece of fabric and pin in place. Using a 1.5cm seam allowance, stitch around all sides of your holder, but leave a 1cm opening in the top (this is for your coat hanger hook to protrude through) and a 10cm opening in the right side. This gap will be used for turning through and inserting your coat hanger.
5. Carefully snip into the curves, then turn right sides out and press. Place your coat hanger inside the holder through the gap you left in the side and shuffle it into place so that the top curved edge of the fabric hangs snugly over the coat hanger shoulders and the hook pokes through the space that was left for it. Use slip stitch to close the gap you left in the side seam.
6. Take the lower edge of your accessory holder and fold the whole thing up to the front by about 9cm (or however high you wish the pocket to be), so that the co-ordinating fabric is now visible as the front of the pocket. Pin along the side edges, then top stitch in place to secure. Finally, mark a point halfway across the front pocket and neatly top stitch through all layers from the top of the pocket down to the bottom edge to create a divider.

1. Measure your laptop, then make a paper template to the same size, adding an additional 4cm on each side.
2. Trim your aida to the same size as your template, then stitch your design centrally on the aida.
3. From your coordinating fabric, use your template to cut out a further two panels. One of these panels will be the back of the laptop sleeve, the other will be used for the fabric ‘bands’ on the front of the sleeve - these will fit below and above your stitched design. Decide how high you would like each band to be. Take one of the panels, measure down from the top to the required height and mark a line, allowing an extra 1cm for turning under. To make the second band, do the same, this time measuring up from the bottom. Cut out both bands and discard the leftover middle piece of fabric.
4. Take your top band and turn under the lower edge by 1cm, then press. Next take your lower band and turn back the top edge by 1cm and press in place. Place your bands on top of your aida, right sides facing up, so that your stitched design is clearly visible and the top and bottom edges of your fabric bands line up with the top and bottom edges of your aida. Pin the upper and lower bands to your aida along the pressed back edges, then carefully top stitch in place. You should be left with one complete front panel that consists of your stitched design bordered by a top and bottom band.
5. Place your front and back panels together, right sides facing, and pin in place. Sew together using a 1.5cm seam allowance all around, making sure to leave the top edge open. Carefully snip across the corners, then turn your sleeve right side out and fully push out the corners.
6. Turn back the top edge of your sleeve by 1cm and press in place, then turn back by another 1cm to conceal the raw edges and press in place. Check that your laptop fits comfortably in the sleeve. If happy with the fit, top stitch all around your top opening edge to secure. To finish, add hook and loop tape or a press-stud fastening.

1. Stitch your design to the left of the centre of your evenweave fabric, so that it’s correctly positioned when your roll is finished.
2. Take one sheet of felt and fold it in half widthways, so you end up with a tall, thin rectangle, then repeat with the other sheet of felt. Place a felt rectangle on top of your lining fabric, right sides up, at each end. The folded edge of the felt rectangle should face inwards and the open edges should line up with the raw edges of the lining fabric. Pin in place. Measure halfway along the folded edge of the felt and mark with a pin. Top stitch a straight line from this centre point back to the outer edge, so that the felt is attached to the lining fabric and creates a ‘pocket’ on either side of the stitching. Repeat for the other felt rectangle.
3. Fold the ribbon in half to make two 50cm lengths. Place the ribbon on top of your lining/pocket piece (right side up). Position it centrally so that the ribbon lines up with your line of stitching on the felt. The folded end of the ribbon should protrude beyond the raw edge of your fabric, while the two separate ends face inwards.
4. With right sides facing, pin your stitched piece on top of your lining/pockets piece. Make sure that your stitching is on the same side that you inserted the ribbon.
5. Using a 1.5cm seam allowance all around, stitch your pieces together, leaving a small gap in one of the edges for turning though. Carefully snip across the corners of your jewellery roll, then turn right side out and fully poke out the corners. Slip stitch the opening closed.

1. Cut two rectangles of coordinating fabric: Rectangle 1: 100cm x 32cm
   Rectangle 2: 117cm x 32cm
2. Trim your stitched design to measure 32cm (w) x 48cm (h). Turn back the top edge of your evenweave fabric by 1cm and press in place, then turn back by 1cm again and press, to conceal the raw edges. Neatly top stitch along the top edge to keep your folds in place. This will make the top edge of your first pocket.
3. Take rectangle 1 of your backing fabric (right side up) and place your stitched piece on top of it (right side up), aligning the bottom and side raw edges. Pin in place.
4. Take rectangle 2 of your backing fabric and place it right sides together on top of rectangle 1 - taking care to align the top and side edges - and pin in place. You should be left with an extra ‘flap’ of material along the bottom edge. Using a 1.5cm seam allowance, stitch the pieces together along the two long side edges and the top edge, making sure to leave the bottom edge completely open. Carefully snip across the corners, then turn your tidy right side out and fully poke out the corners.
5. Take the remaining ‘flap’ of fabric and fold the bottom edge back by 1cm, then 1cm again to conceal the raw edges. Press and top stitch along the fold. This will make the upper edge of your second pocket, so it should be neat and tidy.
6. Fold the whole ‘flap’ of fabric up from the back to the front of your tidy, so that it’s laying on top of your stitched piece and forms a pocket. Fold the raw side edges of the flap under, and top stitch down both sides, through all layers of the fabric, to secure the pocket in place.

1. Fold your main fabric in half, square up the edges and cut it to a length of 40cm. To get the width of your fabric, measure one of the wooden handles and add 10cm to this measurement. Keep your fabric folded and cut the width of your fabric to this total measurement.
2. The bag will flare out slightly at the bottom, which is why the fabric is wider than the handles. To create the rounded edges on the bottom of the bag, place a small plate on the bottom left of the fabric and line up the sides of the plate with the side and bottom edges of the fabric. Draw around the curve onto the fabric. Repeat for the bottom right edge, then cut out both curves.
3. Separate your two layers of fabric - you should now have two identical pieces that will make the outer front and back of the bag. Fold your lining fabric in half, then use one of your outer panels as a template to cut two more identical panels from the lining fabric.
4. Take one of your panels and use it as a template to cut out your finished stitched piece. As the stitched design is only needed as a pocket, it doesn’t need to be the same length as the bag - only the same width with the rounded bottom. Decide how tall you want the pocket to be and how you want the stitched design to be positioned and then cut to size as desired.
5. Fold the top edge of your stitched pocket piece back by 1cm and press in place, then fold back by another 1cm to conceal the raw edges. Top stitch neatly in place.
6. With right sides facing up, place your pocket piece on top of your front outer bag panel. Then place the back outer bag panel on top, right side facing down, and pin together.
7. Measure 15cm down from the top edge on each side of the bag and mark with a pin. Using a 1.5cm seam allowance, stitch your bag together from point to point along the lower curved edge.
8. Place your lining pieces right sides together and repeat step 7, then place your lining inside the main bag. Line up the raw side edges of the lining and main bag above the point you marked on each side, pin and stitch together - taking care to still leave the top edge open. Turn the bag right side out.
9. On the back panel, stitch together the main bag and lining along the top edge, then fold under by 1.5cm and press in place. Repeat for the front panel.
10. Feed one of the top edges through the slot in the wooden handle to the inside of the bag. Pull it down so that the wooden handle is covered, then pin and sew in place. NB - take care when sewing in place as the material will gather and can be tricky to work with. Once finished, repeat for the other side.

1. Take your finished stitched piece and iron a piece of fusible interfacing to the back of it.
2. On the front of your stitching, draw out the desired shape of your patch. Remember to leave 1.5-2cm between your pencil line and stitching.
3. Satin stitch all around your design, following your pencil line, to create an embroidery-style edging. You can use either hand or machine satin stitch.
4. Cut out your patch, taking care not to cut into the satin stitch border. Cut a piece of double-sided fusible webbing to a slightly smaller size than your patch, place it adhesive side down (paper side up) onto the back of the patch and iron into place.
5. To attach the patch to your item, remove the backing paper and iron it into place.

1. Lay your camera in the middle of one piece of felt. Decide how large you would like your case to be (make sure it’s big enough to accommodate your stitched design with some space at the top for the flap closure to attach to), then draw a square/rectangle of this size around your camera on the felt - this will be the front panel. Add a 2cm seam allowance all around, then cut out.
2. To create the back panel, lay your front panel on your second square of felt and draw around it, but this time add at least an additional 5cm height - this will make the fold-over flap closure. 5cm should be sufficient for most small cameras, but measure the depth of your camera and adjust as necessary. Cut out.
3. Attached your stitched design to your front panel (positioning as required) using stitches or fabric glue.
4. Fold the top edge of the front panel back to the wrong side by 2cm, then pin and stitch in place to create a neat top edge.
5. Lay your top panel on top of your back panel, right sides together and aligning the bottom edges. Pin in place, then, using a 2cm seam allowance all around, stitch together from the top right corner of the front panel, down and round the sides, up to the top left corner. Leave the edges of the top flap unstitched at this time. Snip across the corners, then turn your case right sides out.
6. Fold the edges of the top flap back to the wrong side by 2cm so that it lines up with the rest of the case, then pin and neatly topstitch in place all around.
7. Add double-sided hook and loop tape or press-studs to the underside of the flap and in a corresponding position on the front of the case. Finish off by attaching two decorative buttons to the front of the flap.

1. Trim your finished designs into either a square or circular shape, leaving a 2cm border all around the stitching. Turn back the raw edge by 1cm and press in place.
2. Decide how large you need the ear muffs to be - a standard jam jar lid is a good guide - and cut a circular paper template to this size. Check that your stitched design will fit within the template and if happy with the size, use the template to cut four pieces from the furry fabric, adding an additional 1.5cm seam allowance all around each piece.
3. Take one of the circular pieces, place it right side up and then place your finished stitched piece on top of it, also right side up. Position centrally, then hand stitch in place. Repeat for the other design. These are the front pieces of the ear muffs.
4. Take one of the remaining furry circles and place right sides together with one of the front pieces. Pin and stitch in place using a 1.5cm seam allowance all around, but leaving a 2cm gap (or larger, depending on the width of your headband) across the top of the circle for stuffing and turning through. Carefully snip notches all around the curved edges, then turn right side out. Repeat for the other ear muff.
5. Stuff each ear muff with polyester stuffing until it’s well padded.
6. Measure the length of your headband, then multiply this by two. Cut a long rectangle from the furry fabric, measuring 2cm wide by the length previously calculated. Starting at one end of the headband, wind double-sided tape around the band until it is completely covered and you have reached the other end. Remove the tape backing, then wind your furry fabric around the band, completely covering it, pressing firmly in place as you go. Trim any excess fabric left at the end.
7. Insert one end of the headband into one of the ear muff pieces. Push it firmly down into the polyester stuffing, roughly halfway down into the ear muff. Hold in place and stitch closed the top edge of the ear muff securely around the headband, adding more stuffing if necessary. Repeat for the other side.

1. Trim your finished design into a square/rectangular shape, leaving a 2cm border all around the stitching. At this point, make a note of the height of your trimmed piece - this is measurement A. Then turn back the raw edges by 1cm on the left and right edges and press in place. Leave the top and bottom edges for the time being.
2. Measure the width of your scarf - this is measurement B. Cut a two strips from your coordinating fabric, each measuring (A) wide by (B) long. Fold the strips in half across the length, then cut so you end up with four equal length pieces.
3. Take two of the fabric pieces and attach on either side of your stitched design, using a 1cm seam allowance to stitch in place. Press the seam flat. You should be left with a 3-part panel that is slightly wider than the width of your scarf. Turn the top and bottom edges, plus both ends, back by 1cm and press in place. Repeat for the other design.
4. Position your panel as required on your scarf, then carefully top stitch in place along the bottom and top edges, wrapping the ends of the panel around to the reverse of the scarf. Repeat for the other panel.

1. Decide how large you would like your cushion to be, then draw a heart template onto paper to the corresponding size. Use the template to cut out two hearts from your coordinating fabric, leaving an additional 1.5cm seam allowance all around each heart. These make the front and back panels of the cushion.
2. Trim your stitched piece into a square or rectangle. The width should be the same width as the widest part of your heart template, plus an additional 1.5cm on each side. To calculate the height, add a 2cm border at the top and a 2cm border at the bottom of your design. Turn back the top and bottom edges by 1cm to the wrong side and press in place.
3. Take one fabric heart, right side up, and place your stitched design, right side up, on top of it. Position as required so that you see the coordinating fabric above and below the design, and so that your design is fully visible and not overlapping into the seam allowance. Pin and neatly top stitch in place. If you want to add ric-rac or ribbon to cover the stitches, you can do so at this point. Don’t worry that part of the aida is larger than the heart - it can be trimmed later. This makes the complete front panel.
4. Once happy with the positioning, place the front and back panels together, right sides facing, and pin and stitch in place using a 1.5cm seam allowance all around. Make sure to leave a 3cm gap for turning though in one of the lower straight edges. Carefully snip into the curved edges, trim any excess fabric, then turn right side out and fully push out.
5. Stuff the cushion using polyester toy stuffing, then close the gap in the seam using slip stitch.

1. Trim your stitched piece to a square/rectangle leaving a 1cm border all around your stitching, plus an additional 1.5cm seam allowance on each side.
2. Cut a piece of coordinating fabric, measuring the same width as your trimmed piece, by 5cm high. Using a 1cm seam allowance, attach the fabric to the top of your trimmed piece and press the seam flat. This makes the front panel.
3. Using the front panel as a template, cut a back panel to the same size from your fabric. Place the front and back panels together, right sides facing, then pin and stitch in place using a 1.5cm seam allowance all around, leaving the top edge open. Carefully snip across the corners and turn right side out.
4. Carefully turn the top edges back by 0.5cm and press in place, then turn back a further 1cm and press to conceal the inside raw edge. Neatly top stitch the top hem all around, 0.5cm in from the top edge of the pouch.
5. Stitch on a decorative button and add self-adhesive hook and loop tape inside the top edges of the pouch for an optional closure.

1. Trim your stitched piece to a square/rectangle leaving a 1cm border all around your stitching, plus an additional 1.5cm seam allowance on each side.
2. Cut your finished design to size. To work out the correct measurements, use the following formula: A + B + 10cm = Height; C + (Bx2) + 10cm = Width. Draw a rectangle around your design to match these measurements. Position your design centrally along the width and draw the top edge of the rectangle 6cm above the top of your design – this will be for turning back to create the top edge of the pocket. Then cut your design to size to create the pocket.
3. To create the top edge of the pocket, turn back the top edge of the fabric by 2cm with a sharp fold, then turn under by a further 2cm to enclose the raw edges. Check that you’re happy with the positioning of your design, then neatly top stitch along the top folded edge to secure the hem in place.
4. Take your chosen fabric and cover the box frame, pulling it taut across the frame to create a smooth finish. Carefully secure it to the back of the frame using a staple gun. To create a neat finish on the corners, tuck them in as if you are wrapping a present and staple securely in place. If you want to add any additional ribbon or ric-rac storage bands, do so at this point in the same way, by securing the ends of the ribbon to the reverse of the frame with the staple gun.
5. Take your pocket piece and position it as required, right side up, on the canvas. Once you’re happy with the positioning, staple the side and bottom edges in place to the back of the frame, then trim any excess fabric.

1. Measure the width of the door where you want to use your draught excluder, then add 5cm – this is measurement A.
2. Cut a long, rectangular panel from your coordinating fabric. The width should be measurement A as taken above and the height should be 22cm. Note – this measurement includes a 2.5cm seam allowance all around.
3. Place the two panels right sides together, then pin and stitch together using a 2.5cm seam allowance all around and remembering to leave one short end open for turning through and stuffing. Carefully snip across the corners, then turn right side out.
4. Fully push out the corners, then stuff using polyester toy filling. Once the draught excluder is completely stuffed, close the end using a neat slip stitch.

1. Measure the width and height of the front of the bib.
2. On the back of your finished design, mark out a square or rectangular border around your stitching, to fit within the space on the front of the bib, leaving at least 1cm between your stitching and the border line. Cut out your design, leaving an additional 1.5cm all around for turning under.
3. Neatly turn back each edge around your design, then press and top stitch in place..
4. Attach your design to the front of the bib, by either stitching in place or using double-sided iron-on adhesive.

1. Decide how large you want your case to be, then draw a rectangle of the same size on the back of your stitched design, making sure your design is centrally positioned with a border of at least 1cm between the stitching and the edges of your rectangle.
2. Cut out the rectangle, leaving an additional 2cm seam allowance all around. This will be the front of your case. Use the front panel to cut an identical piece from your coordinating fabric to create the back panel.
3. Place the two panels together, right sides facing, then pin and stitch in place, starting at the top of one long edge, then working your way around to finish at the top of the other long edge. Remember to leave one short edge unstitched to form the opening. Carefully snip across the corners, then turn right side out and fully poke out the corners using a knitting needle or blunt pencil.
4. Turn the top of the open edge back by 1cm all around, then by a further 1cm to enclose the raw edge. Pin in place and carefully top stitch all around to secure the hem.

1. Stitch your design on the aida as shown.
2. Make a paper template for your glasses holder. To do this, work out how wide you would like it to be and how tall. It can be any width of your choice, but to work out the height, place your glasses (vertically) between 5-10cm below the stitched design. Mark the bottom point of the glasses on the fabric, then measure the same distance down again from this point and draw another line. To find the top, measure 10cm above the top of your stitched design and mark another line. To find the overall height, measure from the vey top line down to the very bottom line, then add an additional 1.5cm seam allowance all around. Once you’re happy with the shape, cut the template out.
3. Use the template to cut out the front and back panels for your glasses holder. Cut the front panel from your aida (making sure that you’re happy with the positioning of your stitched design) and the back panel from your coordinating fabric. If your aida isn’t large enough, you can join a coordinating piece of fabric to it to create the required size.
4. With right sides together, lay your front piece on top of your back piece of fabric and pin in place. Using a 1.5cm seam allowance, stitch around all sides of your holder, but leave a 5-10cm opening in the right side. This gap will be used for turning through.
5. Carefully snip across the corners, then turn right sides out, fully poke out the corners and press. Use slip stitch to close the gap you left in the side seam.
6. Take the lower edge of your glasses holder and fold the whole thing up to the front by about 15cm (or however high you measured your glasses to be), so that the coordinating fabric is now visible as the front of the pocket. Pin along the side edges, then top stitch in place to secure. Finally, mark a point halfway across the front pocket and neatly top stitch through all layers from the top of the pocket down to the bottom edge to create a divider.
7. Apply one side of the adhesive hook and loop tape to the top front edge of your holder, then pull it down and forward towards the top of the design to create a hanging loop. Once you’re happy with the size of the loop, apply the other side of the hook and loop tape to the front of your holder to secure in place.

1. Cut out your finished and pressed design in a long rectangular shape - wide enough to hold pens and pencils. Leave at least a 1cm border all around your stitching, plus an additional 1.5cm seam allowance on all sides. Then cut a piece of coordinating backing fabric to the same size.
2. Using a pin, mark the halfway point along the top edge of the piece of fabric with your design on. Place your design right side up, then place your zip, right side down, on top of your design, aligning the top edge of your fabric with the top edge of your zip. When positioning your zip, take care to position it centrally. To find the centre point of your zip, fold the zip in half, holding the metal stoppers at each end of the zip together. Match the fold of the zip to the centre point you previously marked on your fabric.
3. Use a line of stitching to fasten the zip to the fabric, approximately 1cm away from the teeth of the zip. Then repeat the process with your backing fabric and the other side of the zip.
4. With right sides facing each other, stitch your design and backing fabric together, starting at the top right corner and working down the right edge, along the bottom edge and up the left edge. Remember to open the zip halfway before stitching to allow for turning through.
5. Carefully snip across each corner, then turn right sides out, using a knitting needle to gently push out the corners.

1. On the back of your finished stitched design, use a pencil to mark out a long, vertical rectangle, with the design positioned at the top. Leave 5cm above the top of the design and 1.5cm on either side. To work out the height of the rectangle, multiply the height of your design by two and add an additional 12cm. Cut out the rectangle, leaving an additional 1.5cm seam allowance all around. Use the rectangle to cut out an identical piece from your coordinating fabric.
2. Place the two rectangles together, right sides facing, and using the 1.5cm seam allowance, stitch all around, leaving a small gap in one of the long edges for turning through. Carefully snip across the corners, then turn right side out and fully push out the corners with a blunt pencil/knitting needle. Close the gap using neat slip stitch.
3. Lay your rectangle down, coordinating fabric side up, then fold the bottom edge up and forward - so that your stitched design appears to make the front of the pocket. Check the fit of your embroidery scissors and once happy, pin in place along the side edges. There should be a flap of fabric left at the top, which will fold over to make the closure of the scissor keeper. Check that you’re happy with the fit of everything, then neatly top stitch through both your pinned side edges to secure.
4. Measure halfway along the top edge of the front of the pocket and attach a press-stud fastening, then add the other half of the fastening to the inside top of the top flap to create the closure.

1. Decide how large you want your case to be, then draw a rectangle of the same size on the back of your stitched design, making sure your design is centrally positioned with a border of at least 1cm between the stitching and the edges of your rectangle.
2. Cut out the rectangle, leaving an additional 2cm seam allowance all around. This will be the front of your case. Use the front panel to cut an identical piece from your coordinating fabric to create the back panel.
3. Place the two panels together, right sides facing, then pin and stitch in place, starting at the top of one long edge, then working your way around to finish at the top of the other long edge. Remember to leave one short edge unstitched to form the opening. Carefully snip across the corners, then turn right side out and fully poke out the corners using a knitting needle or blunt pencil.
4. Turn the top of the open edge back by 1cm all around, then by a further 1cm to enclose the raw edge. Pin in place and carefully top stitch all around to secure the hem.
5. Add any additional decorative trim as required.

1. Cut two squares of coordinating fabric, each measuring 26cm x 26cm, plus an additional 1.5cm seam allowance all around.
2. Trim your stitched design to measure 26cm (w) x 22cm (h), with an additional 1.5cm seam allowance all around. Turn back the top edge of your aida by 1.5cm and press in place, then turn back by 2cm again and press, to conceal the raw edges. Neatly top stitch along the top edge to keep the folds in place. This will make the top edge of the pocket.
3. Take one square of coordinating fabric (right side up) and place your stitched piece on top of it (right side up), aligning the bottom and side raw edges. Pin in place.
4. To create the sections for your front pocket, decide how large you would like each section to be, then very lightly draw a vertical line on top of your stitched piece to mark out the dividing lines. Once you’re happy with the positioning, neatly stop stitch along your marked lines, ensuring you stitch through both the stitched piece and the square of coordinating fabric.
5. Take the second square of coordinating fabric and place it on top of your pocket/first square piece, right sides together. Align the top and side edges, then pin and stitch in place using the 1.5cm seam allowance and leaving a 10cm gap in one edge for turning through/stuffing. Carefully snip across the corners, then turn your tidy right side out and fully poke out the corners using a knitting needle or blunt pencil.
6. Stuff with polyester toy stuffing until you reach the desired firmness, then neatly close the gap with slip stitch.

1. Place your hanger on a piece of paper, draw around it, then cut out the outline to create a template.
2. Centre the template on the wrong side of your stitched piece, allowing a 2cm space all around your design. Pin the template in place. Once happy with the positioning of your design, draw around the edge of the template, then cut out, leaving an additional 2cm seam allowance all around.
3. Use your cut out fabric piece to mark and cut out an identical piece from your coordinating fabric.
4. Take your stitched piece and turn under the long bottom edge by 1cm. Press in place, then turn back by another 1cm to conceal the raw edge. Press, then neatly top stitch the hem in place. Repeat for the coordinating fabric piece.
5. Place the two pieces right sides together, aligning the edges. Using a 2cm seam allowance, stitch along the marked outline on each side edge, leaving a 6cm opening at the centre top for the hook of the hanger. Remember to leave the long bottom edge open.
6. Carefully snip into the seam allowance on the curved edges, then turn the cover right side out. Fold a narrow hem to the wrong side along each edge of the centre top opening and slip stitch to secure.

1. To make the front panel, measure the length of a pen (Measurement A). On the back of your finished stitched piece, mark out a rectangle around your design that measures:
   
   Length A (at least) x the height of your design, plus an additional 1cm at both the top and bottom.
   
   Ensure you’re happy with the positioning of your design, then cut out your rectangle, leaving an additional 1.5cm seam allowance all around.
2. Use your front panel to mark out a rectangle on your coordinating fabric. Then add an additional 4cm to the length - this will create the closure flap. Cut two of these rectangles from the coordinating fabric - they will form the back panel.
3. To make the back panel, place the coordinating fabric rectangles together, right sides facing, and pin in place. Find the centre point of one short edge and insert a tassel. The ends of the tassel should be enclosed between the layers of fabric and the loop should protrude out between the seam allowance. Using a 1.5cm seam allowance, stitch around all four edges, leaving a small gap in one for turning through. Carefully snip across the corners, then turn right sides out and fully push out the corners. Close the gap using neat slip stitch and press.
4. Take the stitched front panel and turn back the right-hand short edge by 1.5cm. Press, then neatly top stitch in place to secure the hem. This creates the top opening edge for the front panel.
5. Lay the front panel on top of the back panel, right sides facing. Align the long edges and the unstitched short edge and pin in place - you should be left with a flap of fabric on the back panel, with the tassel, that will create the closure flap. Check the case is the correct fit for your pens and if happy, stitch together along the two long edges and bottom short edge. Very carefully snip across the bottom corners, then turn right side out.

1. Print out the mini bunting template at 100% and cut out.
2. Position the template centrally on the back of your stitched design (front panel). Check that you’re happy with the positioning of the design, then draw around the template. Cut out, leaving an additional 1.5cm seam allowance all around. Use your cut out fabric to make a matching back panel from coordinating fabric. Repeat as necessary to make as many flags as required.
3. Place the front panel on top of the back panel, right sides together, then pin and stitch in place, making sure to leave the top straight edge open.
4. Carefully cut across the points of the flag, then turn right side out. Fully poke out the tails of the flag, then press. Repeat for the other flags.
5. Cut a length of bias binding to the required length, then fold in half lengthways and press. Insert the raw top edge of the flag into the crease in the binding and pin in place. Repeat for the other flags, spacing as required, then top stitch in place along the length of the bias binding.

1. Take your finished stitched piece, press it and lay it face down on a surface. On the reverse of the design, mark out a border 1.5cm away from the edge of the stitched design all the way around. You can make this a straight-forward shape like a square or rectangle, or you can follow the shape of the design to create a more ‘cut-out’ effect. Add an additional 1cm seam allowance all around, then cut out. Cut out a piece of backing fabric to the same size and shape.
2. Place your stitched design and backing fabric right sides together, then pin and stitch in place (using the 1cm seam allowance). Leave a small gap in the lower edge for turning through and filling.
3. Snip across any square corners or clip around any curved edges, then turn your bag right sides out, using a blunt pencil to fully poke out all of the corners.
4. Place a funnel into the opening of your bag and slowly pour in the dried lentils/split peas. Do this gradually, knocking them into place as you go so they settle properly. Stop filling once you reach a level about 1cm below the opening.
5. Tightly slip stitch the opening closed, making sure to close up any small gaps and tying off securely.

1. Copy the template onto paper or thin card and cut it out. To make the front panel, place it over your stitched design, then draw around the outside and cut it out. Fold over a 1cm hem at the bottom edge. Then repeat the process to make the back panel, this time using a piece of coordinating fabric.
2. Pin the front and back panels together, right sides facing, then sew together around the side edges using a 1cm seam allowance. Carefully snip notches along the curved edge, then turn right side out.
3. Cut a small strip of pom-pom trim and use small stitches to secure it along the bottom edge of your cosy.

1. Measure the inner dimensions of your mouse mat blank. On the reverse of your finished stitching, mark out a border of the same size, leaving a 2cm space between your border line and stitches. Then add an additional 1cm seam allowance all around for turning under.
2. Cut out your design following your markings, then turn back the edges all around and neatly press in place. Secure the edges with either a row of top stitching or double-sided tape.
3. Carefully ease your finished piece into the mouse mat.

1. Cut the stitched panel to 23 x 29cm, ensuring the design is centred. Cut one back panel in contrasting fabric to 35 x 29cm and then cut two side pieces from the fabric, each 6 x 29cm.
2. Lay one side panel on top of one long edge of your stitched panel, right sides facing, and pin in place. Using a 1cm seam allowance, stitch together along the outermost edge. Open the side panel out and press, then repeat for the other side.
3. Stitch two buttons to the back panel, about 2cm below the top edge. Next pin two hair elastic bands to the front panel, so they’re aligned with the buttons and the ends line up with the fabric edge.
4. Cut two pieces of lining fabric, 28 x 29cm. With right sides facing, lay one lining piece on top of the front panel. Sew together along the top edge, catching in the elastics as you go. Then repeat for the back panel.
5. Pin the whole front and back sections together, lining up the seams. Stitch around the outer edges, leaving a 15cm gap at the bottom of the lining for turning through.
6. Turn through and stitch the gap in the lining shut. Push the lining neatly down inside the cover. To stitch around the upper edge, sew through all layers of fabric.

1. Take your finished stitched piece and on the reverse, mark out a square or rectangle around the design, leaving a 2cm gap between your marked line and stitching. Add an additional 1.5cm seam allowance all around, then cut out. Measure the width of your cut-out piece. This is Measurement A.
2. Take your plain co-ordinating fabric. Decide how tall you wish your height chart to be (eg 150cm), then add 10cm. This will be Measurement B. Cut out a panel from the plain fabric which measures A (width) x B (length). Take your stitched piece and place it on the fabric, right sides together, at the top of the panel (tip - at this stage your design should look as though it’s upside down so that when you open it up, it’s then the right way up). Align the top edges, then sew in place using a 1.5cm seam allowance. Open up your joined pieces and press. These two joined pieces make Panel A.
3. Measure the entire length of Panel A. Cut two side panels from your patterned coordinating fabric, each measuring 10cm (width) x Panel A length. Lay one side panel on top of one long edge of Panel A, right sides facing, and pin in place. Using a 1.5cm seam allowance, stitch together along the outermost edge. Open the side panel out and press, then repeat for the other side. These joined pieces now make the Front Panel.
4. Measure the length and width of your Front Panel. To make the Back Panel, cut a piece from your plain coordinating fabric to the same size, then put aside for the time being.
5. Take your cotton tape measure tape and cut it to the desired length (ie the maximum height you want to measure as in step 2), allowing 1cm extra for turning back. Turn back the end of the tape to create a neat edge, then press and secure in place with a couple of stitches. Lay your tape along the length of the Front Panel, starting underneath your stitched piece and lining it up with the edge of one of the coordinating side panels, ensuring the highest number is at the top and the lowest at the bottom. Don’t worry if your tape doesn’t reach the bottom of the front panel, it can be shortened in the next step. Once happy with the positioning, pin and stitch in place along the entire length.
6. Place your Front and Back Panels together, right sides facing. If you need to shorten the panels at all, you can do so at this point at the bottom edge. Once happy, pin and stitch together all around using a 1.5cm seam allowance and leaving a 10cm gap in the bottom edge for turning through. Carefully snip across the corners, turn right sides out, fully poke out the corners and press.
7. Close the gap in the lower edge using a small slip stitch, then hang using a magnetic frame hanger.

1. On the reverse of your stitched design, mark out a rectangle, leaving 5cm between your line and stitching for the top and bottom edges. Adjust the width to match the width of your bag, remembering to leave at least 2cm between the side edges and your stitching. Allow an additional 1.5cm seam allowance all around, then cut out. This will make your pocket piece.
2. Turn back the top edge by 1cm and press in place, then turn back by a further 1cm to enclose any raw edges. Secure with a neat line of top stitch. If you want to add any additional trim to the edge of the pocket, you can do so at this point. Place your pocket piece, right side up, on top of one of your fabric panels (also right side up). Align the side and bottom edges, then pin and stitch in place. The joined pieces make the front panel.
3. Hem the long side edges of both the front and back panels by turning each edge under by 1cm, then press and stitch in place.
4. To make the cord housing (for the drawstring), take the front of your bag and fold back 5mm along the top edge to the wrong side of the fabric, then press in place. Next, fold the top edge back again to the wrong side by another 2.5cm and press in place. Stitch along the bottom of the fold, 5mm in from the bottom folded edge. Repeat this for the back of the bag.
5. Place the front and back pieces together, right sides facing each other, then pin in place along the sides and bottom to secure, but leave the ends of the cord housing open.
6. Attach one length of cord to a safety pin, then feed it through the cord housing starting at the front left of the bag. Thread it all the way through the front channel and then through the back channel, so that it comes out at the back left of the bag. Repeat this process with the other length of cord, this time working from the front right and finishing at the back right.
7. Take the two ends of the left piece of cord, make sure that they are even, and put them inside the bag. Pass the ends out through the pinned edges at the lower left of the bag, about 5cm up from the bottom corner, and pin them in place. Repeat for the right side.
8. Attach the front and back pieces by sewing along the sides and bottom edges of the bag, using a 1.5cm seam allowance, then turn right side out.

1. Cut your design into a strip that measures 45.5 wide, by the height of the design - plus an additional 3cm at both the top and bottom of the design for the height. Turn both the top and bottom edges of the design back by 1cm and press in place.
2. Cut four pieces of fabric, each measuring 45 x 71cm, plus an additional 1.5cm seam allowance all around. To make the front panel of the tidy, take one piece of the fabric (right side up) and lay your stitched strip (right side up) across the top short edge. Position it 2cm down from the trimmed edge to ensure it’s clear of the seam allowance. Once happy with the positioning, pin and neatly top stitch in place along the top and bottom edges of your stitched strip. This makes the front panel.
3. Place the front panel and another piece of fabric right sides together and pin in place. Using a 1.5cm seam allowance, stitch together around the two long side edges and bottom short edge. Snip across the bottom corners and turn right side out. Fold the top raw edge back by 1.5cm all around and neatly top stitch in place.
4. To make the lining, place the remaining two pieces of fabric right sides together, then pin and stitch in place as before using a 1.5cm seam allowance all around. This time, do not turn right side out. Press the top edge back to the wrong side all the way around by1.5cm, but leave unstitched.
5. Cut four lengths of ribbon, each measuring 50cm. On the outer bag, measure 5cm in from the left edge and pin one piece of ribbon inside the front piece, about 2cm down from the finished top edge. Repeat for the right side of the bag, then add corresponding pieces of ribbon inside the back piece.
6. Take your lining bag and place it inside the outer bag. Align the top edges of both bags, then pin in place. Using a neat top stitch, stitch both bags together all the way around the top edge, being sure to stitch backwards and forwards across the ribbons several times for extra strength.

1. Measure the diameter (Measurement A), circumference (Measurement B) and height (Measurement C) of your footstool cushion, then add an additional 5cm to each measurement (to allow for wriggle room and seam allowance).
2. Using Measurement A, make a circular paper template and cut it out – check that you’re happy with the sizing. Take your finished stitched piece, press it and lay it face down on a surface. On the reverse of the design, use the paper template to mark out a circle around the design. Ensure the pattern is centred inside the circle (and that there is at least 1cm border around your stitching). Once you’re happy with the positioning, cut out your stitched piece and put to one side.
3. On the reverse of your contrasting fabric, mark out a rectangle that measures Measurement B x Measurement C – this makes the side panel. Cut out your fabric, then hem one long edge using a 1.5cm seam allowance – this will be the bottom edge of the side panel.
4. Next, pin the short ends of the side panel together (right sides facing and remembering to use a 1.5cm seam allowance at each end) to create a loop. Check the fit of the loop around the footstool and loosen/tighten if required – but remember to leave some wriggle room so that the cover will easily fit over the footstool. Once happy with the fit, sew down the joined short edges to secure.
5. Now join the circular top panel to the side panel (right sides together) by matching the outside edge of the top panel to the unfinished top edge of the side panel. Joining a curved and straight edge can be very tricky, so it’s best to take your time and securely pin the pieces together (using a 1.5cm seam allowance), easing the circle in to fit the edges of the loop. Once the pieces are joined, check the fit on the footstool and adjust if necessary. Once happy with the fit, sew together.

1. Take your three panels of card and stick them together, on top of each other, to create one rigid panel.
2. Decide how tall you want the front pocket of the organiser to be (Measurement A) and then measure the width of the card (Measurement B).
3. Take your finished stitched piece, press and on the reverse, mark out a square/rectangle the same size as your measurements from Step 2. Mark an additional 4cm all around for turning under, then cut out.
4. Turn back the top edge by 2cm, then back by a further 2cm to enclose the raw edges and secure with a neat row of top stitch.
5. Stretch the pocket across the lower front of the card, then turn under the side and bottom edges and secure to the back of the card using strong glue or double-sided tape.
6. Finish by gluing wooden letters to the front of the card and adding some finishing trim to the pocket if you would like.

1. Measure the space on the front of the golf club cover. On the reverse of your finished stitching, mark out a border of the same shape and size, leaving a 2cm space between your border line and stitches. Then add an additional 1cm seam allowance all around for turning under.
2. Cut out your design following your markings, then turn back the edges all around and neatly press in place. Secure the edges with a row of top stitching.
3. Cut out a piece of your fusible-interfacing to the same size as your stitched piece, then follow the manufacturer instructions to first attach it to the reverse of your stitched piece, then to attach it to the golf club cover. NB – You can use small slip stitches to hand stitch your finished piece to the cover if you prefer.

1. Take your finished stitched piece and press.
2. Take your picture frame and mark out three holes at equal intervals along the bottom edge. Drill a small hole at each marked point, then screw a hook into each hole.
3. Mount your picture in the frame as usual.

1. Measure the length you want your table runner to be, then add 5cm – this is measurement A.
2. Cut a long, rectangular panel from your coordinating fabric. The length should be measurement A as taken above, and the height should be the height of your finished stitched design, plus 7cm. Note – this measurement includes a 2.5cm seam allowance all around.
3. Trim your finished design to size, allowing an additional 3.5cm at the top edge and an additional 3.5cm at the bottom edge, plus 12.5cm on each side edge.
4. Take your fabric panel, bring the short ends together and crease along the halfway point. Cut along the crease so that you end up with two equally-sized pieces.
5. Using a 2.5cm seam allowance, attach one of the shorter panels to the side edge of your stitched design, then repeat for the other side. You should end up with one long panel featuring three joined pieces of fabric - your stitched design in the centre with contrasting fabric on either side. This is the front panel.
6. Check you’re happy with the length of your front panel. If necessary, trim an equal amount of fabric from each end to make it shorter. Once you’re happy with the size, use the front panel as a template to cut a back panel from the coordinating fabric.
7. Place the front and back panels right sides together, then pin in place and stitch together using a 2.5cm seam allowance all around and remembering to leave a 10cm gap in one side for turning through. Carefully snip across the corners, then turn right side out.
8. Fully push out the corners with a knitting needle, then press thoroughly. Once the table runner is completely flat, close the opening using a neat slip stitch.

1. Measure the height and width of your finished stitched design, then add an additional 2cm to both the height and the width (to allow for a 1cm border all around).
2. Using the measurements from Step 1, mark out a square or rectangle centrally on the reverse of one piece of glitter card. This will be the aperture for your card.
3. Mark out a second square around your aperture, leaving 1.5cm around the bottom and both side edges and 4cm on the top edge. Cut out the inner square first to make your aperture using scissors or a craft scalpel, then cut out the second square to make the card front. Apply double-sided tape around the aperture on the reverse of the card, then carefully position over your stitched design and press down firmly into place. Trim the aida as necessary.
4. Take your regular card blank and attach the framed piece to the front of it using double-sided tape.
5. Use the template below to make a paper bow from your contrasting paper/card. Trace around it onto your paper/card and cut out the shape. Carefully curl the right flap up and into the centre, securing with glue or double-sided tape. Then repeat for the left flap. Add a sequin, button or another embellishment to disguise the join in the centre, then glue or tape in place along the centre top of your card.

1. Measure the height and width of your finished stitched design, then add an additional 2cm to both the height and the width (to allow for a 1cm border all around).
2. Using the measurements from Step 1, mark out a square or rectangle centrally on the reverse of your card or foam. This will be the aperture for your holder.
3. Mark out a second square around your aperture, leaving 1.5cm around each edge. Cut out the inner square first to make your aperture using scissors or a craft scalpel, then cut out the second square to create the frame. Apply double-sided tape around the aperture on the reverse of the card/foam, then carefully position over your stitched design and press down firmly into place. Trim the aida as necessary.
4. Take your coat hook blank and cover the front of the MDF board with double-sided tape. Position as desired on the back of your framed, finished stitch, then press firmly in place to secure.

1. Take your old denim skirt and lay it flat, with the fastening side facing up and back pockets facing down against the table. Look for the centre seam on the front, then cut along it, up to the waistband and through so that you’re left with one wide piece of fabric.
2. Turn your skirt over so that the pockets are facing up - this will be the front of the apron. Work out how large you want your stitched pocket to be, then make your finished stitched project into a pocket following the usual steps.
3. Position your stitched pocket onto the front of your apron as desired. Pin and neatly top stitch in place, remembering to leave the top edge open.
4. If your skirt has belt loops, thread your ribbon through from end to end, then test the fit of the apron against yourself, tying the ribbon around your waist. If necessary, trim the ribbon to the required length. Turn each end under by 1cm, then a further 1cm to enclose the raw edge and neatly top stitch in place. If your skirt doesn’t have belt loops, pin the ribbon in place over the waistband of the skirt - making sure to leave plenty of extra ribbon at each end for tying - and stitch in place along the top and bottom edges of the ribbon.
5. Finish the pocket with some pom-pom trim if desired.

1. Print out the template at 100%, cut out the door hanger, then cut out the rectangular and circular windows. Trace the template onto your two pieces of card - for the front piece, include both the rectangular and circular windows and for the back piece, just trace the overall outline and the circular window - then cut both pieces out.
2. On the wrong side of the front piece, place double-sided tape around the rectangular window, then around the inner edges of the hanger. Remove the backing tape from around the rectangular window, then position over your design and once happy with the positioning, press firmly in place. Trim any excess aida so there is no overlap.
3. Remove the backing tape from around the edges of the front piece, then attach the back piece - taking care to line up the circular windows and pressing firmly in place all around.

1. Place the inner hoop of your embroidery hoop over your finished stitched piece. Position your stitching in the upper half of the hoop to allow room for the pocket below. Once happy with the positioning, trace around the outside of the hoop on the reverse of your stitching. Add an additional 5cm allowance all around, then cut out the circle of aida.
2. Using your cut out aida circle as a template, cut out a matching semi-circle from your contrasting fabric to make the pocket.
3. Finish the straight raw edge of your pocket fabric with contrasting bias binding.
4. Lay your pocket semi-circle on top of your stitching, right sides up. Line up the curved edges of your semi-circle and aida, then pin in place. Stitch around the pencil line you previously marked on the reverse of your aida to secure the two pieces of fabric together.
5. Frame in the embroidery hoop and secure the raw edges inside the hoop using double-sided tape.

1. Take your Christmas stocking and work out how wide you want the trim to be – and measure how long it needs to be to reach around the full circumference of the stocking.
2. On the reverse of your finished stitched piece, mark out a rectangle around the design that is the same width and height as the measurements you took in step 1 – make sure the design is centred evenly with the same amount of space above and below the top and bottom line of stitches. Then add an additional 2cm on each side for turning under and cut out your rectangle.
3. Turn the top, bottom and end edges back. Use a ruler to give you a straight edge and ‘finger press’ in place, then press along the edge with a steam iron to create a crisp fold.
4. Secure each edge with a line of top stitching.
5. Pin your finished trim in place around the top of the stocking and attach with fabric glue.

1. Copy the template at 100% and cut out.
2. Carefully cut out the inner arch.
3. Trace around the template twice onto your thin card. For one outline, don’t include the inner arch – this will be the back piece of your doghouse.
4. Take the front piece of your doghouse and position the arch opening over your stitched design. Once happy with the positioning, draw around the outline of the front piece onto your fabric. Cut your fabric out, about 1cm in from the outline you drew (this is to ensure the fabric doesn’t overhang).
5. Fix the front of your doghouse to your fabric using double-sided tape, then attach the back of the doghouse to the reverse of your fabric.
6. Finally, attach a self-adhesive magnet to the back of your doghouse.